Ticking sound on sequoia 2006 after timing, water pump and 4 valve work on drivers side

Asked by Apr 07, 2017 at 02:34 AM about the 2006 Toyota Sequoia Limited

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

Had a shop change timing and water pump they also did
valve work on 4 valves on drivers side due to valves  being
bent after botched timing and water pump replacement. No
errors displayed in dash after fix. But Now it makes a
ticking fluttering noise. Sort of like when a lifter is stuck.
Sounds like diesel engine.  It diminshes after it gets
warmed up but its not as loud as a cold start. Vehicle runs
well yet im worried about sound i feel valve job was done
wrong or maybe a worse situation. I havent noticed any
loss of power while driving, does not overheat, does not
generate engine error lights. Can I still drive it? I'm also
worried it may be a rod knocking but sound comes from
top drivers side and quites down after driving and warming
up. I'm taking it back to the shop that did the work for the
3rd time. I'm so disappointed I feel they don't want to honor
their work. Aside from small claims what can I do? Also
what is the problem any ideas? Any help will be will
appreciated in helping narrowing the problem?

2 Answers

73,015

It is not a rod knock, the ticking is from the valve train. Could be a sticky lifter which is not uncommon. Where the lifters replace? Sometimes it is a call to replace them or not. I would keep driving it, that is a major repair, might quiet down after driving it some, Ask about a oil additive to put into the oil to help it out. Its just one of those things, but not detrimental to the engine.

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

Hi Rowefast Yes they did change 4 bent valves on drivers side. Took it to dealer for diagnostic. Took it to dealer for a diagnostic. Noise is coming from within engine block in between cylinders 5 and 7. They want to bill me 4000 to disassemble engine and further investigate. Since it is a time consuming big job they will credit me when fixed. I don't have funds for this and think it's way to expensive. They tested each bank by disconnecting fuel injectors and left coils individually to test. No change was detected noise was still coming from within engine block. Any ideas?

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