97 chevy tahoe not starting
97 tohoe lt 350 vortec no start, new battery, starter checked at parts store works... spins up full and bendix goes out, cleaned all the connections at battery and starter b+ and solenoid terminal..looked at the flywheel when starter out...no teeth missing but there was some damage .edged worn a bit but all teeth there...starter spins and auto store says check gnds...will be doing that today..now actually any help would be great
Try a starter relay, there in one of the fuse boxes.
auto zone thinks there is not enough juice making it to the starter...I will look in the fuse box...n see if there is anything that can be switched out for test...thanks...will let u know as soon as its tested
same...it spins but not cranking...going to try and get a wrench on the crank n move the engine to eliminate the flywheel spot as an issue...
the relay was unique but reseated it...
ok moves the engine ..new spot on the flywheel...same...thank God it was not the fly wheel...must be the juice to the starter...will recheck the gnds at the engine side as well as the solenoid voltage...suppose i could run a test wire from the solenoid input right to the battery and bypass all the other wires ?
You can jump from the positive hook up, the big post, over to the small post, This would fire off the starter. But you know the starter is working, you had it tested. That means 12V is not getting to the small post for the solenoid to kick in. Use a test light for tracing back on the wires. It may be the ignition switch, if it is not the relay.
And what is it you are saying? Just clarify... starter is spinning but not engaging into the flywheel? Or the starter engages into the flywheel but the engine will not turn over? Try to be clear on terminology so I don't get confused.
sorry, the starter spinns up but does not engage the flywheel ...the engine does not turn at all...and I moved the engine around a bit to remove the possibility of bad tooth on the flywheel..put a charger on it on engine start setting with a meter at the batt terminals...15volts....still no good...it must be the voltage getting tothe solenoid input....I have to stop for today..need to make fone calls and it is about to rain....will start early tomorrow....will take down the starter and put a new wire directly on the solenoid input....then try to start...will let u know sorry for the break in the action...but I have to run a buis and was taking time to try a fix...
Ok then You have a problem with either the starter drive, or the solenoid. When you had it tested they did not do a load test. All they did was to see if it works. You said the starter drive goes in and out, so the solenoid is working. The starter drive is what is bad. You can check this by taking the starter down and hanging onto the drive, and try to spin the actual gear. There should be some resistance. Either replace the hole starter, or get a new starter drive put in and it would not be a bad idea to change out the solenoid also.
ok have to make a call will get back with an ans in a bit...btw thanks for the input...I suspect the starter as well I do not think they were right!
I use to rebuild them. Starters and alternators.
starter drive and solenoid all one part they clamped it down applied voltage to batt terminal and solenoid input...in a good starter test unit...but there was no load on the gear assy...so yes it still could be the starter...it is still under warranty...i sould have prssed for the return ...but went with the pro ans...lol....he seemed to think it was not enough voltage or current to the solenoid...I measured the voltave at the batt input at the starter serminal it was 12.56 even during the spin up start...cus it was not under load not engaging the engine....tomorrow I will take it off the engine and examine the gears and feel if what u described is happening....I am quite familiar with elec issues but not a starter motor expert...sounds like u r ...thanks...btw...can I just give u my fone #?
Sure, pm it. And that is the correct amount of voltage the starter needs.
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