so is better to just take the thermostat out. no thermostat,, work better
What are your symptoms? A computer controlled vehicle needs a thermostat for proper air fuel mixtures unless you have modded the ECM.
Without a thermostat your car can run to hot or to cool. Coolant does not stay in block long enough to allow engine to get to proper operating temp. Coolant will also not stay in radiator long enough to cool off to proper temp. I advice to always keep one in your engine.
thank you, so it must be the water pump.the fan are on, then temp go up.. and fan goes off. they change the termostat.and still temp go up 210 or more.. advice please.....
On my 1985 z28 the fans come on at about 215-220 then temp drops to about 175 or so then go off. In town it stays up and down but never over around 225 or so. Mine has been this way for the last sixteen years. I recently replaced my water pump due to leaking weep hole and new hoses. Still same thing on hot days in city stop and go traffic. Which engine do you have? And how close does the temp get to the red? (255+). Highway driving mine stays around 170 or so. I consider this normal.
If you have a scan tool with live data you will see that the fans turn on at about 218 degrees, then the temps should start to drop to about 195 and the fans should turn off, if the temps don't start dropping when the fans turn on then you have a restriction in the radiator flow.
Good point tennisshoes. I was not sure what the actual numbers were suppose to be. Thanks that confirms that mine is operating properly or at least close.
i got the LT1 small chevy block 350, original. the temp will drop but still hot. when the car is runing. 220 the max temp, then drop is that save????? thank you....
On my gauge 220 is in the middle and 250-260 is to hot. So if yours the same then you should be ok. These cars tend to run hotter than most in traffic situations. But if it starts climbing closer to the red then I would be concerned.
With a computer controlled engine the engine must reach operating temperature (195°F) within a certain time after start up. If not, a trouble code will be set and your service engine soon or check engine light will keep coming on. Also, running without a thermostat may allow the engine to run too cool. This will cause sludge build up as well as condensation inside the engine. Over time these things will cause premature engine failure. HTH. -Jim
thank you, for all the good advise... today they are replacing the distirbutor.. i askk the guy about the thermostha an he sais is inside the water pump????? is that true... thank you ...
If you have the 5.7 L V8 then yes, the thermostat goes in the water pump. HTH. -Jim
thank you jim.. today new distributor and thermostha.. and continue getting hot 225 almost to red zone what it can be.... and fans kiking off....
You're welcome, glad to help. Have you checked the timing? Both ignition and valve timing. Is it retarded (late)? If so, that will cause an engine to run hot. Have you flushed out the cooling system using a chemical cleaner? Are all of your air dams and air deflectors in place? HTH. -Jim
air dams and air deflectors what are dose??? and where are located. this weeken we will do the flush.... then if continue we will do the timing??? rigth... thank you again...
Since your Camaro doesn't have a grille to allow air to flow through the radiator there's air dams and air deflectors underneath the front to direct air up and through the radiator while you're driving. Since your car sits low to the ground they often got broken or ripped off while driving. Sometimes stuff like that even gets tossed when repair work is done by unknowing "mechanics"! See if your local Chevy Dealer still has a shop manual for your Camaro. There's probably pictures of what should be under the front end. Without the proper airflow across the radiator it's going to heat up. As far as the timing, if it's retarded (late) it's probably going to be a worn timing chain. Why did you replace the distributor? Was it a timing issue? Or because you were doing the water pump? If it was a timing issue I bet it's the timing chain. Is your transmission shifting late (automatic transmission). If so, coupled with the overheating, those are 2 classic timing chain symptoms. Also check the knock sensor and it's circuit. It could be faulty and severely retarding the ignition timing. Do you have a valve tap? If so, the knock sensor can "hear" it and think the engine is pinging. Again, the ignition timing will be severely retarded in an attempt to stop the pinging that's not really happening. HTH. -Jim
thank you,, i will look for that.. also i find that the relay for the fan was bab.. and the air dams will help a lot so i will buy the relay and see how it work o maybe put the fan to work at all time???? what you think???? if the fan are working the temp is good.. thank you again it make sense the air dams... the distributor was change because it not go on
You're welcome. Glad to help. With the new relay do the fans work as they should? Since the fans seem to keep the temperature under control it definitely sounds like an air flow problem. Investigate the air dams and deflectors first before having the fans on all the time. That's what I'd do. HTH. -Jim
yes the deflector is there in good condition, we put the new relay in work, then we shut off the car.fans no working , new relay, we only replace one, is 3 off then, plus ac-compresor... we drive around is fine..shut off , no working??????
Sounds like it's set up like my 2000 Grand Prix. You have 2 relays, one for each fan (4 pins on each relay), then one relay to run both fans together (high speed). This relay has 5 pins on it. So yes, 3 fan relays total. It's normal for the fans to stop when the car is shut off. They're supposed to do that. When the temperature begins climbing 1 fan will start. On some cars it will come on whenever you turn on the A/C. If the temperature continues to rise to about 240°F or so, the second fan will start (high speed). The only time the fans may continue to run after the car is shut off is if it's overheated when you shut it off. My '94 Ford Escort temperature gauge would swing to about the 3/4 mark before the fans would come on if I was not running the A/C. Then once the fans were running the gauge would drop back to normal. HTH. -Jim
so is normal, because go too high to hot,, so i will replace the other too,, and see what happen??? yea we did that turn the ac nothing... it wen up more.. but when the fan are working the temp is normal. i will replace the other 2,, if continue i will put it direct. ohh alsothe ac inside the car you fell cool but the ac is off??? well thank you again you been very helpfull.. i will keep you posted what happen when i replace the other 2 thank you
You're welcome, glad to help. -Jim
well i think i will keep the fans direct. replace all the relays and do the same some time it works good,some other time dont work so i decide to put the fans direct so is a good idea?????
It won't hurt anything as long as you make sure to have a fuse in the circuit or wire them to an unused accessory fuse. This way you're protected, later down the road, if the fans malfunction. HTH. -Jim
I have a question what is the thing under the thermastat I think it has a heater hose hooked up to it
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