Hey guys. I have a 1997 camaro rs. When my car reaches a certain temperature (180-195°) my car starts to sputter, and just shut off on me. What does this mean? And how can I solve it?
Also, when I took it to my local mechanic
shop a little while ago, I know that it needs
a oil pan gasket, and a tune up. (spark
plugs, wires, and o2 sensor) i was only able
to put in 3 plugs and wires in on the driver
side. The ones on the passenger side are
too hard to get. And I have yet to put in my
new o2 sensor. Is this little tune up the
reason my car dies at normal running
Ignition control module and test connections and wires to and from. It is likely your ignition module is responding to years of heat and vibration. An open may occur at that temperature. it may die, it may restart and die intermittantly, or die and have to cool down before it restarts. Use only A/C Delco or Delphi parts and you will get the most years of durability from them. That goes for anything that makes it go. If you car has a loss of fuel pressure, this can also cause the temp related dying. The diagnosis would include a pressure test and running test to temp, get it to act up, and see if you lost spark or fuel.
Sometimes when I drive for a little while, and then put my car in Park, my car idles below 1000rpm for a second or 2, then it comes back up to about 1500 rpm. The headlights and stuff dims, and I do lose oil pressure and stuff. But it all comes back to normal after a few seconds. Or that's what my gauges say at least. And how would I do a pressure test, and running test?
You wouldn't unless you studied the system and the yools in books, understood the usage, the dangers, and what to do in the event each fact becomes known or; There are issues with the equipment, its hook up, and operation. Thats alot of study and purchasing, experimenting, and danger you arent insured for. Your rolling idle can be remedied simply, but you say there is a shop you know. They can complete your tune part install, clean your thrrottle, and service your battery, but after recording your codes and verifying your concerns. Then they can address the issues as they diag it. If you do your own work, then you can research and learn seeing what is pertinent and why. This is good knowledge. for life. Best learned in voc tech school or auto shop. Not compromising your safety or your cash.
tools not yools
If your 97 has a series of coils or coil on plug design, rather than a module and a distributor, the shut off symptom can also be related to basic circuits that use the ignition switch. I was having trouble verifying a few things because the sites i went to were speculating rather than reporting. It is best to get the car to act up, get it to the shop while it is doing it, and get tests run by a tech who is familiar, and ready to check it. Then your car does not have to sit there, they dont have to invest time seeking the issue, you just say, guys! it is doing it right now? can someone get a 12v test light and come out here ? Your repair order could be prewritten.
Then test the crank sensor, then with test equipment attached, get it to die, and compare what the reading changed to. if you have an issue there, the temp, the gaposis, or electronic noise can be worth spending time to decipher. The ignition module ? if you have the under the coil type can blow a hole and arc out the hole when conditions are right. eventually becomes cranks but wont start in years past for GM. Tests can be run to decipher if it has what it needs, but inspection for a breach hole may save time. Finishing your tuneup, change your maintenance parts. Use A/C delco or Delphi. Check enhanced codes if your car has GM passlock security. There is no recall listed for your ignition switch at this time. Save your OEM parts, box them and keep them. After your car is fixed, you may want to put them back on. after it is solved. and their good operation can help prove that.
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