Need help with drivability problem-95 miata

Asked by Nov 19, 2011 at 06:06 PM about the 1995 Mazda MX-5 Miata Base

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

engine stumbles during light and medium acceleration, and seems to be getting worse with time, but at full throttle, especially in lower gears, it seems to accelerate fine. Car is stock-90K miles- with all services including new plugs and wires regularly. Dealer doesn't seem to have a clue-they say o2 sensor good-recommends intake cleaning service?

11 Answers

265

It may be worth getting the PCV valve checked or replaced. I've just experienced a similar problem with a different vehicle and with the new PCV valve, it seems to be back to normal. It stumbled at low speed, sounded a little off idling but once up to speed, it would run better. Just a thought and it's usually a cheap part to start with. About $24 Mazda brand or $8 for aftermarket.

2,535

Unfortunately you don't have OBD-2, which makes things a bit trickier to diagnose. So how long ago were the plugs and wires done, and does your car have a distributor? Wide open throttle can sometimes cover up a very light misfire to where you don't notice it, despite the fact that it's still there. Pull your plugs and make sure the electrodes are in good shape and there is no physical damage like cracked ceramic or burn marks on the ceramic cones....also make sure the gaps are equal. Then pull your plugwires and give them the same type of inspection. Look SPECIFICALLY for rips/tears, for any small white spots about the size of the tip of a pen on the boots that go down into the valvecovers, as well as white and/or burnt sections along the lengths of the wires. Make sure the wires are separated properly, not routed in a bundle and they should absolutely not run against eachother for more than about an inch, especially if they are side-by-side in firing order, because this can cause an inductive spark jump.

355

orlackthereof is correct,only thing I would add is sometimes bosch platinum plugs cause missfires in cars,I would not say this if I did'nt have a huge drawer full of them,mostly brand new,that i've taken out,and replaced with stock plugs for manufacturer,this has happened across the board on makes,use NGK or ND in your mazda,just a puzzling thing with the bosch,this would be the original style single electrode,I can't be the only mechanic,would like to know.

1 of 1 people found this helpful.
355

Also your distibuter is do to go out,see if its got oil in there,thats common also.

thank you very much!!

5

okay I have a 93 miata mx-5 manual just recently got my clutch replaced besides the flywheel when the car gets heated up every time I accelerate the rpms shoot up but it barely pulls the car when the car is cool being just stared it runs perfect though Any info on what might be the problem could be useful thanks

18,765

Deffinatly a clutch/flywheel issue. Something wasnt installed properly.

5

I have a 1992 Mazda mx-5 miata and I have barely any acceleration at any rpm I replaced the clutch master cylinder not to long ago and it just recently started to not accelerate also when it is cold and I shift gears the car will sputter and slow for a second and then accelerate can any one help me?

180

most likely fluid between the clutch disc and pressure plate.

2,535

Cody: It sounds like an engine issue to me, from your description, not a clutch issue. You may very well have a tuneup-related issue. See my above post for a good place to start on an issue like yours...

20

I know this is years later but the main culprit in the clutch hydraulics is the clutch slave cylinder. On average, I'd say I replace 12 of the slaves before 1 of the masters go out. the only good thing is, they are cheaper than shit. reman by the OEM manufacturer, Exedy, a slave should not cost more than 15 dollars and a master no more than 25. A semi accurate way to check if the slave is ok or not: from the passenger side ,with engine compartment hood open, standing roughly where the front right wheel is, take a flash light and shine it onto the side of your transmission. between the engine and firewall, you should be able to see the slave bolted to the side of the transmission. Is the boot and bottom of the bell housing all wet? if the answer is yes, your slave is leaking and you should replace it. This is not a very difficult job, the hardest part is fighting that stupid coiled up hard line. Therefore, if you planned it out and did your homework, you would have ordered an lengthened braided stainless clutch line. the lengthened portion allows you to take the entire coiled up hard line part and throw that the hell away. If you ever do a clutch or remove and install the transmission, you will be so happy that coiled up crap is gone as it will constantly be in your way fighting you every step of the way taking it out and even more so putting it in as it constantly wants to fall between the motor and trans as you are trying to hump the thing in. good luck!

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