Best way to set timing on 99 5.7 Suburban ? When lining timing marks do I leave distributor in but lose or pull distributor completely out?

Asked by Feb 15, 2015 at 11:10 AM about the 1999 Chevrolet Suburban K1500 LS 4WD

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

6 Answers

150,545

http://answers.edmunds.com/question-1999-Chevy-Suburban-5-7L-timing-problems-152776.aspx

7 out of 7 people think this is helpful.
150,545

Here is the key part: For the V8 5.7L-- After setting distributor, Then connect a scan tool. Monitor the Camshaft Retard Offset value. Important: If the Malfunction Indicator lamp is turned on after installing the distributor, and a DTC P1345 is found, the distributor has been installed incorrectly

6 out of 6 people think this is helpful.
150,545

While looking I found this post by Tom, the Tom that is the all-time heavyweight undisputed champion points leader here, and deservedly so, Just substitute Suburban for Tahoe, it's the identical 5.7L engine: "In the Tahoe the distributor does not control timing. It controls the synchronization of the cam sensor and the crank sensor. The only way to set it accurately is with a class 2 scan tool. There will be a PID in data for cam/crank offset. The distributor has to be turned until this reads 0. Any more than 4 degrees off and it will set a P1345 code and run rough." End quote

4 out of 4 people think this is helpful.
20

thats what i was meaning relearn cam /crank sensor without scan tool

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
17,645

Don't turn the motor with the dist out or you will miss align the oil pump shaft. There isn't a way to do it without a scan tool unless you mark it before you pull it out and line it back up the exact same way.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
50

Teeny bit of misinformation here . . . First of all, there is a way to do this with an affordable scanner that just clears codes, and secondly, a P1345 code does not always indicate an improperly installed distributor, so try a couple things before you start yanking your distributor. It could just be 8-10 degrees off. Anything more than +/- 2 degrees from spec will trip the code. If you don't want to buy the $1000 2-way scanner, or don't want to pay a mechanic $250 to do this adjustment, here is what I did. Old school. You will need a scanner that can at least clear codes. Get the blue-tooth scanner/adapter (amazon) and pay the $2.99 for the "torque" app (the free one is lame) and you can get some basic real time info and reset codes etc. all for way under $25. First of all, if your distributor is 180 out, or a tooth or 2 off it won't run for shit or at all, and is another whole post. So let's focus on this specific situation: Reasonably installed distributor, running well, still throwing the 1645 code. Clear the code. Start the truck. Start a timer to see how long before the code is thrown. 4-6 seconds equals too far advanced. Loosen the hold down. Back it off 2-4 degrees at a time, repeating the code clearing/restart procedure. You will quickly find that there is a correlation between the quickness the code is thrown and how far advanced it is. As you back off and restart, it will take longer to throw the code (ie 8-12, 12-16 seconds) then voila, you will find the sweet spot. If I had the $1000 snapon scanner, I would be able to rotate the distributor in real time @ 1000 RPM and get it into spec (within -2 to 0 degrees I think). The above took me 15 minutes and now the 1645 code is gone forever. On down the road!

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

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