do I have to reset error codes after replacing oxygen sensors
had a rough idle- got the codes read and replaced oxygen sensors, but still won't idle--- actually it's worse now- do the codes have to be reset for it to get a reading from the new sensors?
I have a way you can clear the codes BUT you will need the radio code an DO NOT leave the key in the ignition!!! - Disconnect the battery for about a half hour. That will clear thecodes. BTW did you get the discount one size fits all O2 sensor? Did you replace all of them or just the targeted bad one? Unwritten rule of thumb. Replace all O2 sensors when one go's bad they all need to be replaced.
thanks for the tip on the battery disconnect- yes I replaced all sensors (actually got error codes for all). The car has an aftermarket sound system so radio code shouldn't be an issue.
Hi, B-Mark. good call there
Hey F.N. do you think that maybe the catalytic converter could be the problem?
I took down my post b/c I shouldn't spout about things I don't know, but I do know the codes can be cleared with a scanner also.
Yes...very well could be. jake exactly what codes did it throw? I am good at research if nothing else..I am also thinking vacuum leak, un-metered air, from that or faulty MAF. It's 15 years old and these things will begin to happen
Yes and if you tip the guy at AutoZone $5.00 he'll do it for you....... Or so I have heard.
I guess my real question is: do the codes HAVE to be cleared before the new O2 sensors will start working? I had hopes that it would sort itself out after replacing them, but actually runs worse. I'm going to try the battery disconnect when I get home. If that doesn't work, I'll let it spit & sputter all the way to the parts store & have them clear the codes with a reader.
also jake, cats get hot, very hot normally but I have heard about them getting so hot they get literally red hot, and the heat ruins a brand new downstream sensor and the ECU doesn't know what to do to set the fuel/air trim
jake if you plan on keeping your car for a while, a good scanner will run you about $200..they have cheaper ones, I spent $259 for an Actron CP9580A. It's money well spent
I had that happen in a ML 320 a few years ago. Sold it and got a F350 with the 7.3 diesel. Loved the Mercedes. But man I could always rely on the Ford!
B-Mark is it a Powerstroke? and this is the scanner I bought jake
Did they pass the law that allows John Q. Mechanic to be able to get the dealers "Secret Service FYIO Codes?" Before I was exciled from TAXACHUTTES there seemed to be a good possibility that was going to happen.
Yeah it was. I sold it just before I moved to the Philippines. Best truck I ever owned. I miss it more than some of my relatives. I think I told you I found a 2000 Excursion here. 45,000 kilometers on it for$20,000 (more or less) but its in Manila and I am a 24 hour boat ride away. I'd love to get it. It's bullet proof and the way people drive here..........
thanks guys- yeah even if I get rid of this car, I'll be getting another BMW (I've got 241,000 miles on this one so far)-- so I'll be investing in a code reader/reset tool. In the meantime, I'll try the battery disconnect and/or tipping the guy at the parts store to clear the codes so I can make sure I don't have any "deeper" issues.
I left battery disconnected for an hour- no change, so I left it disconnected over night- no change, so I'll stop by the parts store on the way home from work and have them re-check & clear the codes. If that doesn't help, I guess I'll fold & take it to the mechanic... I think it wouldn't hurt to have a smoke test done on the vacuum lines.
I need help. I took my 2011 BMW 328i for a carwash. The car was on while I was going through the carwash service. After I finished I pulled over and my ABS, Braque, traction control, and service engine soon lights on. The car drives like always but all that its boring me about. The miles in my car are 50,000.
Wet ECU. check your computer circuit board
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