1978 toyota corolla
put in a push starter and did not tape up wire off of starter wire got grounded and i lost all power to the car no light/horn/no brake light on power to the fuse box do you have any idea do have power to the starter
It's very difficult to find images going back to 1978 but I can tell you the in the underhood power distribution center, aka fuse /relay box. there is a "mega fuse", a 100 amp that may have blown if you lost everything like that. This is a little later model Corolla but I think it's real close ... click on it
Wait, you DO have power to starter? I missed that..but I still say fuse.
I'd be lookin' at your battery "knock offs" what show the date of the first charge....five years old is TOO old~ this would be a starting point~ would like to have an opportunity to change out a "mega fuse" too H25, but such a gig would mean someone is on fire~
the chassis ground (the black 1/0 cable from the battery goes to a spot on the chassis)...clean this spot with a coarse wirebrush...clean the lug and re-assemble it to assure 300 cold cranking amps potential...this will make the electrics happy, and the ECU will be correct and producing the correct decisions~
Point taken Judge. Listen to him rumadd, I was guessing
Look for a fusible link that got melted when you grounded the power wire
Hey Judge this is my car while trying to find the fusebox
DavidH25....you were steeped in Corollas and their problems~ yah mon, 1978 is making my heart pound fast for the pullin' into the past...wouldn't it be something if the interior were perfect, still smelled like a new car and there were no cracks on the dash nor gum in the ashtray?...who's livin' completely off the rails now?...my hatless friend?
put a test light from battery to starter their is light at it but there is no power to start it the car has glass fuses their are on good did all the ground cable wires i will check for a fuse wire Thank you all
what a beautiful car!
check the date of your battery by noting the "knock-off" labels on the top of your battery...will degrade 10% per year that is to say will stop taking a charge-up by ten percent per year....until it will not take a charge anymore...thusly cooking your alternator...so get a NEW battery, a good one such as a $125 Interstate battery...or NAPA is good too~ once you've got the new battery must wire brush the chassis where the 1/0 lug attaches and the lug itself too to assure at least 300 cold cranking amps can get through there...here and the connection on the 1/0 cable to the engine block (near the alternator probably) need to be ready to accept the big amperage~ With confidence in the necessary 12 strong volts to power the ECU and sensors we can be confident that everything is doing what it should~
the ignition switch or ballast resistor may be preventing the circuits from being completed and givin' the high voltage not enough energy to complete the mission~
check for power to the coil with the ignition switched to the ON position~ there should be POWER There~!
Hi There is power at the coil the battery is 1 mouth old it has 550 cold cranking amps can it be the ignition or the relays i have no power in the car at all i did clean all the ground wire i tested all the ground wires with the test light i do have power at the push button to the starter but it will not turn over at all
take your starter to NAPA and have it bench tested...it might just be a baddie~
Hi It was not the starter or the relays can it be the ignition switch how can i tell if is no good any help will do i still have power at the starter wire but it still will not turn over Thank you
would you please take a coarse wirebrush and brush the area where the 1/0 black battery cable attaches...yes the non-clamping side with a lug...wirebrush the lug and the spot where it bolts to...wirebrush the bolt and washer or use a new washer...this will assure 300 cold cranking amps for your starter~
there's another 1/0 cable that connects the motor too ground too...it attaches near the alternator~ wirebrush this connection too we need to pull more than 300 cold cranking amps thru that point as well....or it ain't gonna start~
did that to and on the back of the motor there is a ground did that one to
i have 550 cold cranking amp going in the starter
yay....but the starter will not turn?....mmmm bench test at NAPA for free....again...must be the starter solenoid is not transferring the energy...in short, it is a dud, then~
if you bypass the solenoid by touching the two terminals with a screwdriver (not recommended) you'll be bypassing the solenoid...should go round and round then....else you've got a locked up motor....can't be~
Installed brand new starter today!
There is only one wire to the solenoid, which has power to it with a test light and one cable from the battery to the starter and has power to it with the test light.
question remains....and hate to make vinegar of your wine....but is it LOCKED UP? put it in gear and have someone push the bumper with it in fourth gear...the motor SHOULD turn~...regardless of new or old starter~
will try thank you
Any luck on this Blast from the Past?
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