Injection Pump and trouble Codes
So, Last week my injection pump went out. and thank God I still have a warranty on it cause it's a 2,000 dollar part. But is there a specific reason these go bad? cause this is the thrid one on this truck I have replaced.
Codes it pulled was
P0460 (Fuel Level Sensor Circuit)
and the other was Turbocharger Circuit Malfunction.
What exactly are these?
Same thing happen to mine and a buddy's. It was the lift pump. Upgrade the lift pump, I went with a AirDog100. $600. But well worth it not to have to replace the injector pump for a very long time.
Well, I am going to be a diesel mechanic and what I can tell you just off the top of my head is that on the Turbo Circuit Malfuncion is that either the turbo circuit line is damaged, or your line is ripped apart lol, but thats all i can say. I'm not sure on the injection pump, it might be that the belt is loose and its comming off and then back on sometimes, but im not sure on that one
yes the reason they go bad on these trucks is because the in tank lift pump does not provide an adequate amount of fuel to lubricate the pump, also those intank pumps have a habit of shitting the bed, id upgrade to a FASS or AIRDOG system with atleast a 100GPH rating to keep line pressure over 10PSI VP44s seem to like that number. the turbo charger circuit malfunction is prolly your MAP sensor acting up, my 04 threw overboost codes every day till i replaced the MAP sensor
Yea my friend (the black cummins in my photos) has a FASS fuel pump and it works great!
pretty much the more fuel you can get to it the better... exactly like the other guy said a fass fuel pump or to do a in tank conversion and get rid of the stock style lift pump... that is one idea for a good fix... other idea is sounds stupid but change the fuel filter if you want to keep the stock lift pump every 5000 miles or every time you change the oil... clogged filter is number 1 issue and problem of why these lift pumps go out aka lack of fuel to lift pump and it overheats and overworks to try to get the fuel.. obviously better thing is to do in tank conversion (pushing fuel is easier than pulling fuel) but if money is an issue keep the filter changed.
FYI not to put you guys out about knowledge or anything of the sort--- on a 24 valve non common rail wether it is a high output or not they have a lift pump on the drivers side of the block just below the filter and it pulls the fuel from the tank- they do have a retro fit kit that replaces that lift pump with a meetering block and gives you a in tank better flowing and better all around pump......... the common rail 5.9 24 valve in a 2003 to late model 06 early model 07 came factory with a in tank lift pump which pushes the fuel to the injection pump more reliable and better flowing.. the injection pump is gear driven by the timing gears behind the oil overflow plug in the top of the timing cover not belt driven and it does have to be timed right or it will not fire right and will run rough or not run at all again no disrespect to anyone but just throwing info out there i am a cummins certified technician through dodge
i know all of those things as well, i just want paying attention to what that other guy said haha, ive been working on cummins powered equipment since i was about 12 i love these damn engines
Yes I agree with that best diesel ever made in a light truck in my opinion there is so much you can do to them and make so much power and like I said before that was not to insult anyone's intelligence or knowledge just throwing it out there for info
jake is spot on with the lift pumps on these trucks and even the factory pumps are not enough you need to upgrade it now!
Does any body know how the truck acts if the injector pump goes out I drive the truck every day but I use start fluid to start,it runs great after starting it has been acting up every sense winter started ,I converted the pump to the tank still will only start with start fluid
Well using the starting fluid is the first problem. Youve prolly damaged your injector nozzles, a CP3 is simply a pressure pump, at low speeds it obviously isnt capable of making its 23,500 psi of fuel pressure at idle. that being said, if the pump is getting "weak" it may not be building the proper starting fuel pressure. but using starting fluid for sure isnt doing your truck any good.
OK so I got a question.. I just replaced my fuel filter but when I tried to prime it it didn't fill back up
1) you have to crack open 3 of the 6 fuel lines ,at the head,. to get it to prime the injector pump.. 2) not all Vp44 pumps are bad , there is a check ball on the return line that can stick / hang open.., and keep them from supplying fuel to the injectors. 3) yes the stock carter pump is a POS... made to run a fork lift., but not designed to run in a truck , at cruse speed,...,there good for about 1 year,.. when they drop below 10 psi , @ WOT... it's time to toss it away.. if it's a stock motor , or has limited upgrades, a PASS 18 psi pump will work grate for years , and years.. 4) before you buy a new vP44 , injector pump,. , pull the banjo bolt off the return line ,.. and clean it with trannie flied,.. and check the check valve to make sure it closes.. , and see if you can save yourself a $2,000.00 repair.. to all you cummins rip off mechanics.. go pond sand,.!!!!!!!
Want to know what y'all think I have a 5.9 Cummins its a 99 model two wheel drive five speed I was about to down shift for a stop sign and it fell dead! What should I check on or try first??
sounds like it lost fuel pressure. first check the banjo bolt off the return line. if it don't close you will get no fuel pressure. pull the banjo bolt off the BIG return line ,there is a check ball in it. .. pull it and clean it with trannie flied. put it back in and crack loose 3 of the 6 injector lines and bleed the air out of the VP44 injector pump., were they go into the head.., you will need a 18 mm wrench. it would be a good idea to change the fuel filter at the same time, then fill the filter housing up with tran's fluid... it's also easier to see the red trans fluid, when your bleeding the injector lined. crank it over tell you see the trans fluid escaping the 18 mm fitting nuts on the side of the head. cracking 3 out of the 6 ,.will do it. / you don't need to do them all. BTW- it will miss tell the air gets out of all 6 fuel lines.. if that don't do it ..:( it's most likely the VP44 pump..it's self that failed. if you have a stock lift pump.( carter.).. get rid of it and buy a 18 psi pass (OME) location lift pump..ASAP. the VP44 pumps need the higher fuel psi..., to live. so if it starts after the above,. / or not..! buy the 18 psi Pass lift pump off ebay,.. there about $245.00 or you will be buying the injector pump., over and over.
I have a Dodge 2500 Ram 2001 Cummings 5.9L. diesel. My truck someday starts instantly and some times it spins and spin excessively before it starts. I have replace the lift pump and that did not solve problem. I have replace tps and still not solve the problem. Anyone has an idea or suggestions.
yep,..:) the check ball in the BIG fuel return ( Banjo bolt ) line , has junk build up on it.... do this,.. cycle the key , a few times so the Lift pump has a chance to get the fuel to it's proper PSI.. then see if she fires up first click../ if it does,. then it's time for a better fuel filter , and dump a few bottles of injector cleaner in the tank../ or if you know how to bleed your injector lines ,..? pull the big return line Banjo bolt , clean it with carb cleaner / and soak it in Auto Trans fluid ,.. and then spray it clean, with the carb spry ..:) or buy a NEW Banjo bolt , with new crush washers ,.. and if you switch it quick , you mite not have to bleed the injector lines,. BUT do change the fuel filter , and fill it with Auto trans fluid .. ps. it dogged me for months..,./\ and i cycled the key , every time before my 1999 would start. Gordy tell i found mine with crud on the check ball... best wishes
I have 99 , miss only on start up my be carter pos or check ball .afew years ago engen run fuse only supplyed 7 amps ecm needs 9 would crank no start change run fuse hope this help someone .
Went to Dodge dealer pd 280 dollars diagnose found low voltage 7.2 pin 4 said it would cost over 5k to fix and they would not give a warranty. They were very vague and uninterested in helping me further. They said they would have to drop tank and ck the lift pump. I have replaced so many parts and still diesel starts but kinks out. No more diesels for me. The dealerships mags truck and car dealers loaded with diesels for sale NOBODY WANTS THEM
I have a question i have a 2004 dodge 5.9 24 valve it starts and idles fine but when u put is in drive and mash the pedal it will go but when it gets to 1500 rpms its spitting and spudding and cant get over 1500 rpms it acts like it wants to die when u load it up and the scanner said the fuel rail pressure is too high
I had that problem about a month ago I and I stupidly drove it that way for a couple weeks just to get to work. It seemed that the more I drove it, the higher rpm I could get till it would change gear and I was actually driving above a crawl. Then, out of the blue, it stopped starting altogether. I got codes p0251, p0252, p1688.more or less stating no communicating between OEM and fuel injection pump. So first I replaced the relay, didn't help. Next bypassed the connector zero no help, tried to everything possible not to have to spend much money on it, but it's all boiled down to the fuel injection pump needs be replaced or rebuilt. Ouch! Dodge dealer wants $2,700 plus the core. On-line I'm seeing $1,450 po Lu's $450 core charge. Find found used $950. I'm still trying for a better deal. I don't have the money these days. Good luck to you.
Hello I am having trouble with my 05 24v. Stalled coming home like someone hit the key. code P0483 for the cooling fan then p2509 for the PCM loss of power. I replaced the hub cluch and still have crank no start. The code for the fan is gone but PCM is still presant. I have checked Live data while cranking and see everything but fuel pressure values at the sensor as well there is no power at the shutoff solenoid.
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