flushed system today, added coolant & distilled water according to specs; runs hot and heater will not get warm; I think air in system and can't get it out; ran hot, relieved pressure via cap, filled with extra fluid, happened again...
sounds to me like the waterpump ain't pumpin' frequently the vanes on the pump are corroded away....from a PANIC refill with hose water...then NOT gettin' that stuff out of there right away~
Was it doing this before you flushed the system? If not then open radiator cap and crank it up and let it idle for a while. Watch level as it idles. As level drops in radiator add coolant/water. It might take a while but eventually you will get it all out.
Oh also have heater set on max heat while doing the above. This should get the air out.
you could get a thermal gun for 17 dollars...the cats go nuts over the ruby red lazer~ that way we'd see exactly where's it coolin' okay~
so you think the t-stat is gummed open>H25?
"flush" didn't do nuthin'~?
I think it is possible, except closed, not open, from reading his thread...
you know I'm of a mind that pumpies not pumpin' no more~ you could pull the t-stat out and would not help~
Was it doing this before you flushed the system? If so take the advise of judgeroy and davidh25.
How did you flush this ohe? put the heater on....connect the heater to a garden hose?.....at the shop we had a fitting on the hose so that you could BLAST compressed air along with the water to "scrub" the cooling jacket clean...plain water at gardenhose pressures may not be enough...if it was really bad we'd punch out the freezeplugs unscrew the water jacket drains and let it flow a good long time....combined with blasts of air usually did the trick~
...could very well be a stuck closed thermostat as H25 said~ under 20 dollar fix~
Rudy1956 you have the top two gurus on this site trying to help you. You must be special. If you could give them a little feed back they will be able to help you get it fixed.
With the heater blowing cold I'd say low on coolant because system is air bound, faulty water pump, clogged heater core indicating that the cooling system passages elsewhere in the system are blocked with deposits. Perform a chemical flush. I've used Prestone Super Flush with good results. BUT be prepared for something to spring a leak. This is a powerful cleaner so if something in the cooling system is questionable (radiator, water pump, etc.) it'll start leaking. If it were a stuck closed thermostat you'd get LOTS of heat from the heater. Unless, of course the heater wasn't working before the overheating started. HTH. -Jim
F*$#in AAAY right~ dandyoun~ we get nothing but a nod of approval...if that....like a union suit with the flap wide open with our asses just hangin' out~....what do we really care what is the problem here? I'm guessin' NOT~
What about the heater blend door? Could check it. Is it the 4.7 engine? If so, you have a bleeder screw located on the front top part of the engine. Does your temperature gauge show the normal temperature? If yes maybe your thermostat is O.K.
You don't have enough water,, run engine till stat opens and then let cool down. open rad cap and add more coolant
Pitblue, hey guys I have a 2007 dodge magnum and it keeps running hot and heater not warming up help me please
How do I bleed the air out of my cooling system. it is an 04 dodge ram has the 4.7
hi i have a 95 dodge ram 1500 5.9 ran fine till water pump gasket gave out replaced that solved. replaced thermostat and houses as well now it runs to cold replaced thermostat 2 times new one opens and closes ran with just water still cold
After this has happened to me twice with two different vehicles, I figured I'd help the next guy. It's most likely the radiator cap not allowing the coolant system pressure to be at normal operational temp to prevent boiling by maintaining pressure in the coolant system. If you have any doubts it's $6 to $15 part so just try it before digging in to far. Also I have read from mopar that they recommend changing the cap every few years.
Oxalic acid dissolve and tell no longer soluble in a gallon or two of hot water pour it into your radiator just your radiator and let sit for 1 hour and watch the calcium or lime deposits Fall Away worked like a charm after several radiator flushes and a trip to the dealer I even bought a new radiator just in case now I don't need one
My water pump appears to be circulating back thru reservoir, I put new fan clutch, and funny thing is gage gets higher out on interstate than in town??????
I have a stumper 99 dodge ram v8 360 offroad edition with transmission cooler.....my dodge for some weird reason and this happens every 2 months or so will redline...I went threw 4 thermostats in a year and brand new radioator and everything...so this last time I decided to just releive pressure off cap while it's running btw upper radioator hose when it's overheating is harder than to horny rats in a wool sock...anyway it's running 213 releive pressure hose goes back to normal and it's running 230....I take the cap off and fill it up and truck instantly cools to 192.....I burn threw about a gallon every 3 months and I cannot find any leaks...There is however this antifreeze smell from time to time but truck will run perfect till this pressure buildup happens....I'm stumped and really it's just a hassle to every month or so bleed off pressure....then wait till next time..Sometimes doesn't happen for 4 months?
It's very random and very weird
Conner, how long does the system hold that kind of pressure? When the engine cools down there should be no pressure at all. HTH. -Jim
We need help our 1997 dodge ram won't stop over heating it just stopped leaking for now I replaced thermostat , housing , gasket ,sealant , glue ,upper and lower radiator hoses hose clamps , radiator cap, new serpentine belt, heater bypass hose hose clamps , water pump, water pump gasket, clutch fan why is it still over heating ????
Derrick, you may have air in the cooling system. No heat is a good indicator of that. You may also have a blown head gasket. With the engine cold, pressurize the cooling system with a cooling system pressure tester to 16 PSI. The pressure should hold for a minimum of 15 minutes. If not, it's leaking somewhere. To check for a blown head gasket, pressurize the cooling system, engine cold, and start the engine. If the needle on the pressure tester's gauge bounces the head gasket is blown. HTH. -Jim
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