O/D off and trans temp light comes on after a minute of driving

Did you ever figure this problem out? Just changed my transmission and the od off and trans temp light is on.

I'm having the same problem I have no clue what it is can you please tell me what you did to fix the problem

Was wondering if anyone figured out what the issue was. I just changed all the solenoids and a few other pieces on my transmission and now it's doing the same thing

I'm having exactly same problem, after rebuilding the transmission my pcm stoped working I rebuilt the pcm had alot og electrical issues, replacing alot of things and now the trans temp came on and after a while smells like burnt. Please tell me if you figure out what the problem is.

Mine did the same thing check the return lines that go to the tranny the rubber ones one of mine was kinked they straight the line and cleared the codes on it and was good to go mine did it when I hit the brakes this happen right after a fresh rebuild hope that helps

my 1999 Dodge Cummins does the same. Trans Temp Lt. plus O/D off. I changed fluid and filter correct fluid and proper level, same problem. My next step is to hook up a vacuum gauge and see if I have a leak somewhere. Good luck to us all. No codes were thrown.

Was having that same issue try flushing your radiator checking your thermostat housing the particles cooling system problems is what my issue was hope this helps

trying to figure this out as well, for you diesel guys i read that its electrical interference from the alternator. they called it ac noise, theres a part you can buy to fix it or you can wrap your alternator wire in tin foil

Check valve on frame rail passengers front..

I had a similar issue on a 2001 Dodge ram 1500 5.9L with the 46 re. Solved the issue with a transmission rebuild kit from Cascade auto parts that included all solenoids the 3/4 gear spring and most importantly the OD sensor. Not the easiest repair but also not very difficult if you take your time and keep things in order. There is a great video of how to replace all the solenoids and the spring on the Cascade transmission website. They have the transmission out of the vehicle and on s bench do it doesn't show you the most difficult part. The trick to removing the throttle body. Before you remove the throttle body (especially if you have to do this without a helper), block the front tires and raise the rear of the vehicle and place on jackstands. With the vehicle in neutral start to lower the throttle body, the parking brake rod will stick, this is where a helper can move the rear wheel back and forth and this will allow the rod to free itself. If you don't have a helper you can use your feet to move the drive shaft will you hold on to the throttle body until it is freed up. Pain in the ass. But it works. After that easy work replace all solenoids, spring, filter, and tighten the bands. Put everything back together and your good to go. Bought my truck with 120,000 and new this was an issue so got $1500.00 off the asking price. Kit was $160.00 and it took an afternoon to get done. I would start earlier in the day if you can. 15,000 miles later and no issues. I would suggest changing trans fluid every 30,000 miles and tighten up the bands and 46 re's will last a long time. Unless you are hauling trailers or motor homes trans coolers shouldn't be necessary. The check valve allows pressure to stay in the transmission so when starting you don't have to wait for the trans to build up pressure, otherwise you will need to wait a minute for the pressure to rise or you can mess up your transmission. It isn't a bad idea to take off the check valve and clean when you change your fluid but you need a special tool to remove it. And if you are getting chunks of stuff to clog up the check valve boring that out is the least of your problems. Good luck.