Clutch pedal won't depress??

Asked by Feb 14, 2017 at 01:37 AM about the 2001 Chevrolet S-10 2 Dr STD Standard Cab SB

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

Okay here's my issue, I got a S10 truck from a
friend about 3 weeks ago. It is my understanding
that the clutch was replaced just before I got it
from him. I drove around for a couple weeks
almost in "safety mode" because it's an older truck
and I didn't know how well it ran.

After just over a thousand miles of driving I
decided it was solid, started right up, ran
well/smooth, shifted nice, ect. Feeling good about
it, I decided it was good to go for a little longer
distance drive.(hour away) I was on the highway
for about 45 minutes at 65-75mph, 5th gear entire
ride. As I approached the exit I attempted to
downshift into 4th after coasting down a bit and
the clutch pedal was stiff as could be, I couldn't
push it in even standing on it pretty strong. (I am
6'5" 410lbs) I popped it out of gear and coasted
down the ramp, stopping short of the end, and shut
it down. First thought was to bleed the slave
cylinder and see if I could get pedal to depress. I
opened the bleeder wide and not a drop came out.
Pedal still hard as a rock even with bleeder wide
open. I noticed that the drain plug had fresh
seepage and that it was not even hand tight. As
well as a few various other bolts in the same
vicinity.
So it definitely ran dry and seized up, god only
knows how long. Obviously something seized
inside the clutch. What I'm wondering is how do I
diagnose what's actually broken instead of just
throwing a whole new clutch in this thing when I
might just need a throw out bearing or a pressure
plate?

1 Answer

75,465

By pressing on the clutch with the bleeder wide open tells me there is a problem with the clutch master cylinder, but I have never has this happen, the pedal should press down with the bleeder open, unless there is an obstruction in the clutch master cylinder. First I would make sure there are no physical obstructions in the clutch pedal itself. But more than likely you will be replacing the clutch master cylinder and the clutch slave cylinder assembly which involves pulling out the trany to get at the clutch slave cylinder behind the throw out bearing.

Your Answer

Chevrolet S-10 Experts

  • #1
    Andrew Olsen
    Reputation
    2,510
  • #2
    John Saffrahn
    Reputation
    1,050
  • #3
    Trebor66
    Reputation
    1,030
View All

Related Models For Sale

Used Ford Ranger
175 Great Deals out of 5,444 listings starting at $1,250
Used Toyota Tacoma
677 Great Deals out of 46,258 listings starting at $2,700
Used Chevrolet Silverado 1500
2,461 Great Deals out of 174,056 listings starting at $699
Used Ford F-150
2,846 Great Deals out of 212,952 listings starting at $1,295
Used GMC Sonoma
7 Great Deals out of 407 listings starting at $1,950
Used Nissan Frontier
387 Great Deals out of 23,898 listings starting at $2,200
Used Dodge Dakota
95 Great Deals out of 3,635 listings starting at $1,800
Used GMC Sierra 1500
1,156 Great Deals out of 65,790 listings starting at $1,750
Used Chevrolet Blazer
3 Great Deals out of 944 listings starting at $950
Used Dodge Ram 1500
422 Great Deals out of 10,850 listings starting at $1,499
Used Toyota Tundra
613 Great Deals out of 35,462 listings starting at $2,900
Used Chevrolet Avalanche
182 Great Deals out of 5,068 listings starting at $2,250
Used Chevrolet Tahoe
795 Great Deals out of 42,134 listings starting at $1,980

Used Cars For Sale

2004 Chevrolet S-10 For Sale
3 Great Deals out of 49 listings starting at $2,500
2003 Chevrolet S-10 For Sale
6 Great Deals out of 287 listings starting at $1,600
2002 Chevrolet S-10 For Sale
198 listings starting at $2,450
2001 Chevrolet S-10 For Sale
168 listings starting at $1,995
2000 Chevrolet S-10 For Sale
179 listings starting at $3,299

Content submitted by Users is not endorsed by CarGurus, does not express the opinions of CarGurus, and should not be considered reviewed, screened, or approved by CarGurus. Please refer to CarGurus Terms of Use.