No Spark - 4.3L S10 Pickup
The engine stopped while I was driving down the highway at 60mph. I could not get it to restart. Had a tow-truck take us home.
Using the Hayne's Manual Diagnostic Flow Chart,
I tested for: spark at the plugs - No Spark
spark at the coil wire - No Spark
test the Coil - results all positive (the coil is new)
Check voltage at terminals A & D of the Ignition Control Module -
>10v at A, <10v at D (This is the problem) The ICM is new also. I have also replaced the Coil Wire, Cap & Rotor. The Crankshaft Postion Sensor tests fine. (Alternating 5v pulses) There is also >10v going to the coil at its terminal A.
The grounds are good at the coil and ICM.
There is good continuity at the white wire w/black stripe between coil and ICM.
These results led me to believe the PCM was at fault, so I replaced it too.
It still will not start.
The first time I tested ICM terminal D, it gave a reading of >10v.
Since the replacement of the PCM, it shows <1v at terminal D. This is still a No Spark condition. Last summer I replaced the fuel pump & filter, the spider fuel injection assembly, and the heads. All with new gaskets. It has been running like new, until this. I have not replaced the Ignition pickup coil (camshaft position sensor). Could this be the cause of the low voltage reading at terminal D?
Ignition switch? Wiring at the starter? That's where I'd look next. HTH. -Jim
sounds liker high resistance ,poor ground or frayed wire somewhere
Thank you Jim and Jimmy. I think I've found the solution. It seems to be in the connector to the Ignition Control Module. The White wire w/black stripe from terminal D on the ICM to terminal C on the Coil shows enough continuity to light an led test light, but a test with a multi-meter shows a significant drop in voltage. I'm going to see if I can temporarily bypass it. If that works, I will get a new connector. Jim, one of the tests for the ignition switch is the same as for checking voltage at terminal A. I have >10v there. I'll let you know how it goes.
You're welcome. Glad to help. Yes, please do. -Jim
On the road again. It was a bad connector that caused me grief. I replaced the connector to the ICM, but still had a no-spark condition. So I started re-testing, which took me back to the coil. The coil tested fine, the problem still seemed to be with the coil driver wire (white w/black stripe). I pulled everything out of the conduit and could not find any visual signs of damage. I got (false) positive readings for continuity. There was just enough contact for that reading, however I still had significant voltage drop. I replaced the coil primary circuit connector, and I am a happy man again.
Awesome! Thanks for letting us know. Very glad you're back on the road! -Jim
Question? How did you bypass the ICM? Is there anyway to bypass all these sensors?? Im beating my head against a wall with the dumn things.
Hi Brandie, I didn't bypass the ICM. I bypassed the connector by connecting the wires directly to the ICM terminals. That was how I knew it was the connector itself. I wired a new connector in, and it's been running fine for the past year and a half. I don't think you can bypass the sensors, as they all play a part in the proper functioning of the engine. I used the diagnostic flow-chart in the Haynes manual to systematically test each component, and continuity of each wire. It took a lot of time. Good luck.
Thanks for the tip, died on me going down highway did restart for short time enough to get home then died again. Tried changing fuel filter, pump checked out but not much to no spark from coil. Put new coil on with again no spark. Checked out this forum and went out wiggled white wire with black stripe and whoooom started right up. Bad connection right at the plug in on coil. About to go out and fix this thing. Only 202,000 miles on tis 1998 sonoma 4x4, just keeps going! Thanks for the tip!!!!!!
Yes got a 93 S10 I was driving down the street it stopped working I put a new fuel pump in it and you feel filter and still no start is there anybody out there that can help me
Yeah check your ICM in a connections to your ICM which is located to the left side of your motor if your face in it it's got a two connectors to of there's a coil you'll see and without that there will be no function to your fuel injector
If that doesn't do it for you check the cap and rotor and possibly the ignition switch and I guess go from there
Haeve chevrolet s10 whit e distubuter e cramshaf sensor
I have a 93 S10 4.3 Automatic 2wd, I was driving and it just died, before that the engine idled high then low then smoothed out. Could not hear fuel pump kicking on and had it towed home. Next day put a fuel pump in it and a fuel pump relay, cranked it up before I put bed back on it ran and idled fine. Put bed back on drove about 5 mile to my home since it was out my dads bolted tool box in and get in to start truck and it will not start, have fuel to Throttle body but not spraying through injectors and I have no spark on plugs or coil. I think I have it narrowed down to the ICM. I supplied 12v to purple wire on ICM and it activated injectors, checked ignition coil checks good. So I'm down to the ICM also checked pickup coil in distributor and it checks good. What does everyone else think I'm about out of options.
don't waste time and money.. on cap rotor,ICM.....just replace the whole distributor.....$120.00....you'll have less money and time and stress invested.... I have a 1995 s-10 4x4...4.3 L...tbi...had no spark at plugs ...and no gas at tbi....i had power going to ICM....but no spark.....took ICM to auto zone had them check and their machine showed that the part was good....checked price on new ICM...distributor cap ..rotor...those cost close to $90.00....checked price of NEW distributor ... $120.00 +taX.. DON,T THROW NEW PARTS AT A OLD WORN OUT DISTRIBUTOR.....
how do you test an icm?
ok, injectors at throttle body is working fine. still no spark. ohm test on old coil failed so I replaced. still no spark
I changed out my coil and the ignition igniter that set on the side of my ignition coil.
Testing the ignition control unit requires the use of a high impedance digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) and an LED test light such as Tool No. VAG 1527. A standard analog voltmeter or a standard incandescent 12-volt test light will cause damage to the unit. The ignition control unit is tested using a logical step-by-step process by checking the input and output signals. If the VAG 1551, VAG 1552 or equivalent diagnostic equipment is available, the first step in control unit testing is to check the control unit's fault memory. If this equipment is available, follow the manufacturer's instructions on its use and fault memory interrogation. WARNING When using diagnostic test equipment, always make sure the ignition is switched off before connecting the equipment to the electrical circuits. NOTE When performing the following tests, the vehicle's battery must be fully charged. WARNING Never crank the engine or turn the ignition switch on with a high-tension spark plug wire or ignition coil wire disconnected. If a plug wire or ignition coil wire is disconnected, it should be grounded before the ignition is switched on or the engine cranked. Because control units rarely fail, make sure the failure is not do to one of the following, and repair/replace as necessary. The control unit has not been exposed to excessive heat The control unit has not been contaminated by fluids The control unit has not been exposed to excessive moisture The control unit has not been exposed to excessive vibration or impact The related input and output components meet the manufacturer's specifications. The vehicle's charging system is not overcharging. Symptoms include a dry battery and/or warped battery case
Again my 1998 Chevy S10 No fire was caused by what is called an ignition igniter which sit on the side of my coil bracket next to the coil. I hope this will help someone with the same problem.
I have a 2000 Chevy s10 when I'm driving my truck just dies and then it's hard to start back up does anyone have any ideal what might be causing it to do that
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