2004 F150 5.4. All four Coil packs on right bank are dead. Left side ar all fine. Truck running on left side only, so therefore, not running much. Why 1 side only dead?

Asked by May 05, 2014 at 10:23 AM about the 2004 Ford F-150 XL 4WD

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

What would cause all four coil packs to be dead on a Ford F150 5.4 engine.  Left bank is good, truck starts and runs, very poorly, cannot be driven.

14 Answers

27,975

the Ford set-up is a little different in that the coils are supplied power all the time and the PCM provides Ground to fire them. It sounds like you have a wiring concern. The power circuit (Red/Light Green wire) supplies power down each bank of coils. It's the same feed and fuse so personally, I'd follow the loom back from the failed bank and see if there's physical damage to the wiring. A splice could have failed but it's more likely that the harness got damaged.

9 people found this helpful.

Thank you very much for your response. It does make sense. Now I have somewhere to start looking.

27,975

You're welcome. Let us know what you find!

did you figure this out. i have the same problem. ive used a test light on the wires and when key is turned off they are both ground and with engine running on the bank of cylinders that still works the dead side of the engine has positive voltage to both wires into the coils. as does the working side. both wires give green light in test light with key off . red light when engine is running

40

I got the same problem passenger side all 4 coils dead no power at all did you fine the Solution for your truck really need some help here

4 people found this helpful.
10

Has anybody figured the problem out yet

1 people found this helpful.
27,975

You'll have to do some actual work to find it. Please see my original post.

3 people found this helpful.
20

its the vct sensor its located in the front of the motor had the same problem one for the camshaft and one for the crankshaft depending what side is out is determaned by witch side is not firing its about $80 bucks and a 10 to 15 minute fix. Also watch for the other one to go out with in about 6 months after you replaced the other one

2 people found this helpful.

can be a camshaft out timing ?

10

Recently ran into the same problem. Driver side bank dead. Anyone successful in finding the problem. I'd appreciate it. Thanks.

1 people found this helpful.
110,195

I would check for a damaged wiring harness.

1 people found this helpful.
10

VCT solenoid, 70 bucks, i lost all 4 cylinders on the drivers side, was throwing 23 different codes, seen the post up there about the VCT, runs perfect now.

1 people found this helpful.

I don't have an answer very sorry to say however you guys all refer to the VCT solenoid which makes perfect sense if my vehicle had the 3 valve Triton this is the only forum I can find that comes close to what I'm going through it appears that half of my truck is running the other half seems to be dead passenger side Bank however it's 2 valve it's not a 3 valve I don't have the phasers or the VCT solenoids still need a response from anybody that could lead me towards the right lead I replaced a lot of sensors I rebuilt the engine from the ground up everything seems to be running perfect high RPMs it seems that the skip goes away even my computer doesn't seem to pick up mode 6 data as far as where the misfires coming from I have brand new injectors brand new cop and brand new Motorcraft plugs I'm not quite sure what I'm missing wiring also appears good

I also felt it was important to mention I apologize I have a 2001 Ford F-150 XLT 4 by 4 with a 5.4 L 2 valve Triton engine I took a block from a 1999 rebuilt mine with King Barons carpartswiz supplied the cylinder kits I replace the IAC the CHT the TPS look through the wiring on the PCM ran a lot of Ford programming on it just to try to come up with what was going on I even had to put a brand new intake manifold on it and all new fluids and brand new filter it just appears the passenger side head is failing I'm getting ready to run a compression test I'm all opinion praying that there's no issue there but nothing seems to be leaking or burning out I'm just dumping raw Fuel and I've got brand new injectors it seems electrical but I can't seem to pinpoint it

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