Is there a special procedure for bleeding brakes on a 2003 f150
I have a 2003 f150 that had a rear brake line blow out. I replaced the line
and front pads and calipers, as well as the rear pads. I tried to bleed the
system,and get clear fluid at all 4 corners, with no bubbles. My pedal is
hard with the engine off but as soon as I get booster assistance the pedal
goes to the floor. I have tried bleeding it several times with the same
result. I thought that the master cylinder may have failed when the line did
and the pedal went to the floor. So I replaced the master cylinder, bled the
system again, and still have the same issue. Any ideas?
Now, before anyone goes off and spews "take it to a pro", I am a retired
ASE master tech with more years under my belt than I care to admit. This
should be a simple, straight forward brake repair, however I seem to be
missing something.
ok after you bleed them with truck off do the brake cycl work ie truck jacked up push peddle down and try to turn the wheels. if they work i would say ABS maybe try to reset computer take the battery cable off see if that helps also PROPORTIONING VALVE might have failed
Ok, then you will know to always start on the wheel farthest from the master cylinder, keep the M/C topped off to prevent air from entering system, and never allow the pedal to go to floor during process. There is no trick for the F-150 different from any car. Rhodes2345 makes a good point in his answer. The proportioning valve, if bad, will send the fluid to only two wheels and you will never get them bled. Air will remain in either front or rear regardless. I am not 'spewing' anything.... sorry if I came across that way. You might consider a manually operated power pressure bleeder tool. Check out this: http://www.fordf150.net/howto/bleedbrakes.php
Now, after more reading, what you describe may be a problem with booster ..or vacuum supply to it. Something to consider Still not spewing, just trying to help, ok? Don't forget the RABS bleeder valve... click image for full screen
Thanks fellas, My truck has 4 wheel anti lock disks, therefore has no proportioning valve so to speak. Only an ABS control unit with two inlet and three outlet ports. I have tried to attach a photo but have no idea how to. It seems to trigger the ABS system before it really should and I am thinking that there might be some air that control valve. However, I can find no bleed nipple anywhere on the unit itself, or in the system anywhere other than at the calipers. The pedal does seem rock solid with the engine not running. I'll have to disconnect the battery to see if that helps.
Did you ever figure out the problem?
Try driving the truck and get abs to activate to push air out of system
I am working on my son's 2000 F150. I have the exact same issue. His vehicle is extremely rusted, thanks NE Ohio, and I got the truck for a song. Replaced the booster, and master cylinder. Both components past any and all test I can find. Just ran the electronic ABS bleed using the proper OBD2 tool to no avail. I am at a loss.
try checking ABS unit there are 2 rubber caps on unit you can remove , take a small 4 way screw driver put into holes then have someone push brake peddle down and then let it go , if screw driver pushes out you have a bad ABS unit . just went through same thing after spending $100`s trying to fix my issue this was my problem from the start . hope this helps .
kirkwooder, did you ever find a solution. I know its been years, but I am now where you were. blown back line replaced and now can't get new front calipers to even get good flow. have some fluid slowly coming out. Back brakes squirting fluid like they should? Hope you or your solution finds me before I have less hair.
