New starter, new relay, still having starting problems.

Asked by Jun 06, 2014 at 10:18 PM about the 1999 Ford F-150 Work Extended Cab LB

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

1999 F-150 4.6
Initial problem was (and still is) turn the key and hear a click, few seconds hear another click. Eventually will start after up to 10 tries. Sometimes will start first time.
Installed a new starter, same issue. Installed a new relay, same issue. The first click is louder than the second. Hasn't failed to start yet but sometimes may take 10 tries?
Is there an issue in the computer or something else?

13 Answers

215

Sounds like a faulty ignition switch. Also check your ground wires.

20,500

Check to ensure all the electrical connections between the battery and the starter of good and free of corrosion. Also check the negative connection from the battery to the ground, probably on the chassie, for a loose connection or bad ground. Check the solenoid on the fender. If good, check with a meter the connection at the starter while someone turns the key to start. PLEASE TAKE ALL PROPER PRECAUTIONS HERE. If you hear a "click" but the starter continues to spin you may have a broken cog or two on the flywheel.

2 of 2 people found this helpful.

Hello, i have 1999 ford f150 xlt and pass months i have problem with charging battery, changed the alternator, changed the starter solenoid, changed the positivie red wires, changed the relay, changed relays at the fuse box, and still battery is not charging, i'm confused what else could be wrong, also checked all the ground wires, any help, suggestions i will appreciate it

20,500

Eskimo. First: Fully charge the battery with a charger. Then start the vehicle. Use a Multi-meter set to DC volts. Place leads on battery. Check the charging voltage. Should be 14.4 or so volts. If not, could have a bad alternator out of the box.

I did that, I even bought new alternator, but this morning when I checked the battery, without the truck running, it was 12.57 then 12.56, 12.55, 12.54, 12.53, 12.52, 12.51, so I'm thinking bad battery, battery is new, got it from municipal garage

20,500

The 12+ voltage without the vehicle running normally indicates a good battery. Did you check the voltage with the vehicle running? Should be 14+ volts. If the voltage is 14+ volts then there is a possibility there is a parasitic draw when the vehicle is parked. Basically, something is drawing power when he should be off when the key is removed. As an example; I found one in my wife's vehicle. The switch for the glove box light was broken and the light stayed on all the time. I could explain the process to checking for a parasitic draw, but it is too long, but simple. Check the net for a video on how to check. There are probably dozens. But first verify the alternator is charging at 14+ volts on a fully charged battery.

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

checked those, so I just installed 130 amp new alternator and still the battery is not charging, checked the continuity from + positive battery to ground and there was a continuous beep, is that supposed to happen, would it be from diode in the fuse box from PCM???

20,500

Start the truck. With the truck running check the DC voltage at the battery with a multi-meter. I need to know what voltage is being put out by the alternator. You have not told me yet. If the reading on a fully charged battery with the engine running is 12+ volts and dropping, then the alternator is not charging at all. Now, what could cause it not to charge at all? Bad connections within the circuit. Bad wire. Bad voltage regulator (if the regulator is external to the alternator). The ECU can also not be sending a command signal to the alternator to charge. This is vehicle specific and requires a shop manual to check.

ok, 12.26 after charging battery and then started dropping, we replaced the battery still not charging, cleaned all the wiring, changed the relays in the fuse box and the relay that connects fusible link and alternator wire, checked the continuity on wires, I'm wondering if I'm buying bad alternators, but what I will do is change voltage regulator on the alternator

20,500

If, while the engine is running and the alternator connected the voltage reads 12.26 volts then the alternator is not putting out voltage to top off the battery. I have gotten bad rebuilt alternators right out of the box, but two is unlikely. If you purchased the alternator from a big box store like autozone, they can check it for you on their bench machine to verify it is good or bad. I am not sure about your particular model vehicle, but I suspect the voltage regulator is internal to the alternator. If so, and new, do not change it out, it is warranted. More to come.

20,500

Is the bat/volt/alt/gauge lit on the dash? If should be if the alt is not putting out the voltage. Check the ground connection coming off the battery all the way to where it connects to the frame or other main connection point on the vehicle.

voltage regulator is external with four torque screws, I have new voltage regulator, I might check it out, thanks for replying, I may have more questions later on, my truck is 99 model Ford F150

I checked all those, I even replaced the battery wirings, battery to starter and to relay where alternator contacts which is "Fusible Link" wire, alternators I purchased were from car dealership in Ottawa and from Amazon.

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