02 Blazer Won't Start
My Blazer won't start. As I start to turn the key, the dash lights up, everything seems
fine, but turning key to start, shuts everything off. No starter clicking, no sound, no lights
at all. What I do hear is a clicking sound up under the glove box until I turn the key off,
and take it out of the ignition.
I started it up like normal yesterday, and drove about a mile and half down the road on
my way to work. Stopped to get gas, and when I tried to start it to go, I got nothing. I
carry a jump starter with me, (to help other people with), and tried that and it made no
difference. So I called a tow. When he got there, he had to put the truck in neutral to
slide it up his flatbed. We got it home, and I figured I'd try it again, and see what
happened after tapping the solenoid a few times. It fired up, but the battery would die if I
wasn't applying the gas.
I started with the battery. It's registering 12.4v. The cables all appear in good condition,
and the connections are clean. (I replaced the positive bolt because the old one was
stripped). Still get the same 12.4 reading.
So, in accessory, I get every light (and radio) on. Turn the key to start, and everything
immediately goes black, except for that clicking noise under the glove box.
battery sounds bad probably a dead cell take battery to parts store and have a load test done to check for cranking amps.
battery can have a dead cell and still have 12.4 volts but when needed to crank wont have amps necessary to turn starter
And that could cause the whole truck to just "go to black" like it is after the key is turned to start?
You could have a loose or bad connection on your starter.
Your battery reads 12.4 with the engine running? Or not? But yes a battery with a dead cell can read 12.4 or better and still be bad. It really sounds like a bad connection tho. Are you jumping it off or charging the battery in between amy of these steps?
It's not the battery. I just put a new battery in it, (a "Die Hard"), and got the same result. And no, Andrew, I never got to get a reading "with the engine running" because I couldn't get the vehicle started. That's what's wrong with it. It won't start. And I was trying to jump it with a starter pack, and ALWAYS got the exact same result.
Next step would be the starter. You can take it off and have it tested at most parts stores
"Taking it off" is going to suck. I don't have a way to jack it up (right now) and it's -1 outside right now. But yeah, I guess that's my next step. I just don't get that it completely shuts off everything when the key is turned to the start position, but I guess that's how it signals it's bad. I'll post back with starter results. Thanks.
When you let off they key is it back to normal?
No. When I let the key off, everything is still off completely, except that clicking noise starts up under the glove box. That noise only stops when I either depress the brake pedal, re-engage the key again, or un-hook a battery cable.
check the connections to the starter see if they are loose. sometimes you can peck on the starter while someone is trying to start it and it will turn over. but it really sounds like a bad connection.
I finally got the starter out. (It's really frickin' cold here, so lots of ducking inside to warm up). Everything was TIGHT. Really tight. I'm going to bring both the starter and alternator in to have them checked. The cables all look in pretty good condition. I don't see any frayed parts or insulation on any of it. (This vehicle only has 144K on it).
make sure when you put the new starter on. you can tighten the starter down real tight. but the wires that goes to the solenoid tighten just a little the plastic on the solenoid is known to break(been there). so don't over tighten the wires.
I'm having some trouble removing the alternator. I've got both of the bottom bolts out, but there are these spacers between the alternator and the mounting bracket it sits in that the bolts go through. They're rust colored, about 3/4" long, with a slot that runs the length of them, as though they can be squeezed to a smaller circumference. I just don't want to risk damaging them, if they're a) irreplaceable when/if I get a new alternator, and b) if they're not replaceable I'd be rather screwed without them to remount the alternator I have. Here's a pic to help visualize it.
you should be able to get a pry bar under the side of the alternator. pry on it a little and keep wiggling it.it will finally come out. you don't have to mess with the spacers. I'm pretty sure the alternator is not your problem though. I believe it's your starter or starter relay.
The new starter goes in tomorrow morning. I'll reconnect the alternator, and try it, as is, so that I'm not trying to exchange something I don't have to. As I've already found out, the starter relay on this system is built in to the starter, so the new one, (if indeed that were the problem), will fix it. Fingers crossed.
I have my fingers crossed for you. The starter relay isn't on your starter. that is the solenoid. the starter relay should be in your fuse box under the hood.
New starter in, and no joy. On to the alternator. I still can't get those spacers off that I showed in my previous picture. Any ideas? Thanks.
Have you checked the starter relay. and did you tighten the wires back on the back of the alternator.
your engine compartment contains some relays. IGN-A IGN-C and STARTER all have to do with starting your truck. https://www.google.com/#q=2002+chevy+blazer+starter+relay&tbm=sho p
I'm telling you its not the alternator unless the wires on the back of it is not hooked up, not tight, or it has a bad connection.
Got the alternator out, and had it checked. Supposed to be between 14 and 15.5 volts. Mine was putting out 11.4. Got a new one. And probably going to get an ignition switch tomorrow. I had read on another forum, that these can cause the symptoms that I'm having. One poster even suggested that repetitively starting the vehicle with the steering wheel all the way in the up position can somehow cause these to go bad. I'm pretty tall, so getting in the vehicle with the wheel down, is really not an option for me. So, I think, as part of the vehicle starting process, (i.e. not the alternator), the ignition switch might be the one of the last components left to fix to resolve this. I don't know. Nothing else is working.
Posted my last post BEFORE seeing that bandit31so had posted the 3 that he did. Thanks for those, and I'll look in to those also!
did you get your truck going. if you did what was the problem.
Sorry for the LONG delay. Had other issues come up. (non-truck related). Anyways, I bought a code reader. (Bosch). The only code it came up with is CO222 "right front wheel speed signal missing".
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