I 'm having several issues (see below) with my pick-up and would be grateful for any suggestions.


Asked by Jul 19, 2013 at 05:30 PM about the 1995 Ford F-150 XLT Extended Cab SB

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

1995 F150 Supercab SB, 2WD, 5.0L, AOD, 3.31 axle, 282K miles (no engine rebuild).

1.  Starting
a)  With ambient air temperature below 40 degrees, vehicle will crank, but not start unless the gas pedal is slightly depressed while starting.  This is for the first start of the day only, all others are normal.
b)  With ambient air temperatures over 90 degrees and with sitting out in the hot sun, vehicle will start and run normally only for the first start of the day, then with other attempts to start it will crank, run momentarily, sputter and die.  Sometimes if the pedal is pushed to the floor while attempting to start, the vehicle will run but shakes and smells as if it is flooded.
2.  Knocking (ping)
a)  Once the vehicle has warmed up, it will knock briefly when accelerating from stop.  Worse under load (A/C) and in much hotter or colder ambient air temperatures.
b)  Intermittent knocking (light to moderate) when cruising at 60 - 65mph with little load.

3.  Lack of power under load
a)  A moderate headwind will slow the vehicle down and sudden gusts will cause the vehicle to momentarily buck or miss.
b)  When climbing hills at highway speeds the transmission downshifts normally, but the engine appears to work very hard to get up long hills - I share the climbing lane with the eighteen-wheelers!  This sort of load appears to cause increased oil consumption.

Code reader test results:
KOEO - 565 "Canister purge solenoid circuit fault."  Solenoid checks ok and 5V measured at connector with ignition on.
Continuous Memory - Pass
KOER - Pass

8 Answers


How long since your last major tune up? Plugs, plug wires, ect.....


Spark plugs about 6 months. Dist. cap, rotor, & wires about 6 - 8 years. Don't know that timing has ever been checked.


I would check dist cap and rotor. 6-8 years seems like a long time with that many miles on it. Also check air filter. Might be good idea to check timing (282k miles is a long way on original timing chain) IMO.


Thanks for the reply. Timing chain, gear & sprocket were replaced approx. 30,000 miles ago. Will see about getting timing checked, then maybe replace cap & rotor.


Timing probably ok since it's only been 30000. I feel that you will see some issues on underside of cap. If it looks ok I would not replace. Probably going to find build up on posts in cap and rotor button tho.


Some carbon on contacts on underside of the cap and on rotor, also some minor pitting. Cleaned up with a small wire brush. No cracks or damage on underside of cap. Will get timing checked and probably replace wires since they are fairly old now.

Chris Lewis

#1 sounds to likely be you temperature sensor. This acts as the choke on efi vehicles. Pushing you pedal all the way to the floor while cranking shuts off your injectors allow the gas to dissipate to a level the engine can start on. Definately do wires cap and rotor. Over time the materials wear down causing further gap between cap and rotor thus causing weaker spark. If you have flooded it a few times an oil change wouldn't hurt.


Thanks for the reply. I would agree that this behavior is similar to a malfunctioning choke in a carbureted engine. I have checked the IAT sensor in the air filter assembly and it seemed to behave as it should - low temperature/high resistance, high temperature/low resistance, but I can't remember the values and it may no longer be within tolerance. Is there another temperature sensor I should check?

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