I have a starting problem with my 1995 Ford F150

50

Asked by Jun 20, 2012 at 09:56 PM about the 1995 Ford F-150 XL Extended Cab LB

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

On occasions my F150 will turn over but not start. I have found out that I can put it in neutral and roll it backwards or forwards a couple feet, get back in and try again and  it will turn over and crank.  This remedy nevers fails.I have had it at a couple mechanics that have replaced several parts and the problem still exist.

15 Answers

735

probably the starter and flywheel teeth are beginning to wear out.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
50

Thanks Mark, I will check that out.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
50

Forgive me for being a novice and not knowing anything about engines. The starter turns and the engine will not start. Put it in neutral and move it a couple feet and then try again and it starts every time. You have a lot of comments, do you have any idea what the problem is ?

4 out of 4 people think this is helpful.
1,415

E

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
1,415

Probly have the wrong size pinion on starter or ring gear has teeth missing. It does seam strange though push back and forth in neutral? This would do nothing at all to fix any fault that is present...

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
17,870

Does the sound made during the starting procedure when it will not start sound different from when it does start? If it does, it could be broken teeth on the flywheel or a starter going bad. One easy thing to do is bang (but not to hard) on the starter with a hammar then see if it will start. If it does, the starter is shot. If the starting sound is the same try the park safety witch.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
17,870

Post what parts were replaced. And if it was the reason it was sent to the mechanic in the first place.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
50

I am not knowledgeable at all about this , but the park safety switch sounds like it could be the problem. I am going to have a mechanic check that out. Thanks,

80

Thier could be more than one culprit, I had to replace my tank selector valve switch and both fuel pumps, because that valve failed and it did the same problems you described, also check your IAC valve which connects to the throttle body, yes too check your flywheel and starter, however if you hear the starter crank with not metallic loud noise, and just get a no start scenario, check your spark, and fuel coming to the engine, you can ask your mechanic about all of this, i had the same happen to me, it was a simple switch that is 15 bucks at autozone it provides power to the fuel pumps, if it fails no fuel gets to your injectors and a no start happens, ALL of this seems alot, all you can do is eliminate by process of elimination and testing. One more question does your check engine light stay on or blink or flash, if so you can also get a code reader or have autozone or oriellys check it for free.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
20

It's the hall effect sensor in the distributor. It gets hot and fails. Buy a new distributor for $95. Takes hour to replace. Just did it on my truck. It only stalled or wouldn't start when the AC was on and heated up the sensor.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

I took off my starter and connected it straight to my battery and it turns very slow does that mean its still good or no

17,870

either that, or the battery is bad. Since it is off, take it to Autozone and they will test it.

Check the Ignition Control Module in the driver side fender first those trucks are bad for that going out. Also check your distributor cap and coil pack.

25

sounds to me like the neutral safety switch is wore out but hell what do I know try replacing it bet it fixes problem

I replaced starter,after having it checked,ford put a cheap one...pinion gear begins to vibrate,grounding or it would get solenoid hot enough to turn engine off.my battery was old so replaced it too.no problems since.

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