91-Tercel getting no heat in cabin:The following has been done: new thermostat (x-2) 1higher priced one, replaced hoses,flushed.Controls work, pump not leaking,no fuses found bad,still no heat? Help

Asked by raeanna Dec 14, 2016 at 06:02 PM about the 1991 Toyota Tercel 4 Dr DX Sedan

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

4 Answers

101,515

You did the right thing by taking care of the more common and lowest cost causes, unfortunately you now have to look at either a bad/weak water pump or a blockage in the cooling system. The blockage may be in the radiator or heater core. You don't make any mention of the engine running hot or overheating so it leaves the heater core as the remaining suspect. I would verify it, you can squeeze the heater hoses after the engine warms up (and the thermostat opens), you should feel the hoses pressurized some and warm/hot coolant flowing. If the heater hoses feel limp or not hot like the radiator hoses, there is no flow. Next you can remove the heater hoses and try to flush the core itself and see if it's any good.

First thank you for your answer. I should have included more details. I had the engine, radiator and heater core flushed by Jiffy lube ($90.00.. I might add) it made no difference, they claim that their flow test showed good. I got it home and flushed it again and again unitll it ran clear, The first time, immediatly after Jiffy lubes flush, it was totally rust color...so that was a total waste. I then removed the heater hoses, flushed from both directions, no sentiment, ran good both ways. I then tried the old "Home" mechanic's fix, removed the thermostat all together...still no heat. Then I discovered a fuse for the heater in the "Kick Panel" and thought...thats it, but both lookedgood, and then tested good. is it possible that I installed the new ($16.00) thermostat backwards? i doubt it, cause itlooks like the gasket fit in the housing side just perfect. What is your thoughts? water pump or heater core? although I have read that the water pump usually leaks prior to not working, and there has never been any antifrezze on my floor boards. One last detail, it looks like theradiator water is moving, however it did overheat pretty quickly when I test drove it. I squezzed the top hose to remove any bubbles...and...it drove for over 30 minutes, no overheating...but STILL no heat...its driving me nuts, and I am 60yrs old, not very mechanical, infact this is my firstattempt at fixing a car by myself...its going pretty good, wouldnt you say? I should never have started this...now its snowing...go figure..thanks

101,515

It might be something as simple as trapped air in the cooling system. I say simple but that can also be diabolical in some cases. A typical flush or hose change doesn't result in air settling deep into the heater core, but you had yours flushed several times and had heater hoses disconnected, so try bleeding the air out again, it may take several tries. It helps to elevate the front of the car so the radiator is the highest point in the cooling system. You might also have a stuck temperature blend door, this is the little flap that directs air from the blower fan across either the heater core or AC evap coil. If that flap is stuck open only to the AC coil, you won't get any heat. Your car is old enough that the flap may be controlled by a vacuum actuator, or it might be a more modern electronic actuator. The only way to confirm an actuator is working is to get access to that part of the dash or to attempt to hear it moving when you shift the temp control back and forth between hot and cold. Good luck.

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