abs/trac codes. Impala

300

Asked by May 20, 2013 at 07:42 PM about the 2005 Chevrolet Impala Base

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

Abs/trac lights on. Diagnostic codes c-1218, c-1222, c-1233, c-1245. Does the hub need replaced or is it a wire issue. If it is a wire where should I look? Already inspected the hub - ohm reading when spinning the rotor was 1000-1100. Sensor lead was 5volts. visual inspection of the wires showed no break from the hub to main bundle(? Near the ac compressor I think - sorry not great at identifying everything in the engine bay). Visual inspection of the abs pump ground was good.

Any suggestion

29 Answers

300

c1218 - pump motor circuit shorted to voltage or motor ground open. C1222 - right front sensor input 0 C1233 - right front speed circuit open or shorted C1245 right front ABC channel does not move No clue what this translates to

10 out of 10 people think this is helpful.
300

damn auto correct. Abs lol not ABc. Thank you much. Tomorrow if the weather holds up in gonna try roughing up the ground for the abs. (at the strut column) frustrated and my ocd and the lights don't mesh lol

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

take it easy there, bre---these cars are awesome...we will help you....may take a day or two---I have FULL confidence in DavidH25 and communicate off of CG~ Will send him a non CG mail before too long....keep the motor warm~

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
300

I love this car. Best car I ever had and want to make sure she is around for a long time. Want everything to be perfect lol

6 out of 6 people think this is helpful.
31,815

Find the wires at the brake control module and check the continuity of the wires from the right front to the module. Sounds like the wires are pinched and shorted together.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
31,815

If they fall out of the wire loom holder the wires can very easily get pinched in the upper control arm.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
300

way is the proper amp/volt on them?

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
31,815

There shouldn't be any voltage, it's a hall effect switch. It's a magnet wrapped in a coil of thinly stabbed copper wire, as the teeth on the and ring pass this magnet it creates voltage. The faster the teeth pass the more voltage it creates If you have voltage president then that may be your problem. How many errors at the plug two or three?

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
300

Roughed up the ground on the strut last night, no help though it was pretty bad looking. Haven't found the wires your referring to. The extent I know about cars is limited to what I've had to replace/repair so far on different cars.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
300

Anyone have a link to the fsm so I can see a wiring diagram? Not sure which wires I'm supposed to do what with and what readings I should get. when I tested the hub itself it was 1000-1100ohms and 5dc. thank you much and sorry if I'm being blond. Electric work frustrates me, rather replace a sway bar than a wire lol

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

wow...you certainly are ambitious..always had to tough it out myself with no help too, until MS brought me down...no I just love cars at a distance and try to help people have owned at least 30 jalopies of the rust-belt variety...drove an Impala with 500,000 miles on it "Milwaukee cab 96 1983-1985" this '72 Impala had a Jasper engine the steering wheel would have free play...the brake pedal would move side to side~ agreed, we need a source....BMW puts everything out there...all drawings so that it is easier to find replacement parts....

...the thing is you can run without ABS...if you do not live in a slidey, icey neighborhood----don't say that I mentioned this...you never used to need this level of traction control...my '72 Impala never had it~

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

got some wires~ cannot find a schematic worth a salt~

300

I live in the mountains so I have till Oct to fix this

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

okay Bre....let's say it doesn't get fixed...worst is you'll have 'idiot lights" blarin' at you....perfect time for the "black tape" solution...as I've stated we NEVER had to worry about these silly things in the past....we gonna waste all our free time on THIS? the car starts, the car goes and stops the car turns....these used to be my four criterion when selecting my next 'rust-belt beauty' Why does it need to be any more than this?.....oh, traction control....could NEVER live without traction control?~

maybe this one will cover the "wheel-trac"~

8 out of 8 people think this is helpful.

A,B,C,D all connect to the "cruise control module"~ is this where these severed cables end up at?~

3 out of 3 people think this is helpful.
300

thing is I can't find a broken wire or even one where there is wear marks on the installation. Abs I can do without. Its the trac I will need come winter when the steeper roads get slushy. If I understand the codes right its not the sensor and don't wasn't to spend $100 on a new hub if I don't need it. Even had an electrical engineer helping me and he is lost too.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

honesty Bre McGroghan (hard to say without a scottish accent)---I have never relied on automated application of the brakes...the whole thing just seems silly....if you are behind the controls, you're controlling the thing...not relying on the intuition of your friendly robot~

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
31,815

The ability to pulse the brakes the way the abs does is a trillion times more effective than your foot and it will activate before you even notice you're sliding.... you are correct about not needing it Roy but it's undeniably safer than you alone.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

you distracted the electrical engineer with your beautiful looks....distracted me too~...stay on target....stay on target....just replace this length of wire that is showing NO-circuit completion....back at the shop we had an evil little device called a "power probe" where we could juice or measure that was happening to each circuit~

If it's a "hall effect" like John is suggesting it relies on like transistor junction....whoa, that's delicate business...you electrical engineer from transistor class what a "hall effect" sensor is....most delicate of signals~....almost impossible to test...you may end up just replacing these lengths of wire the Saffran has told us now they are weaved to a fail-and split orientation....replace those...Saffran knows what he's doin'~ (as my good pal H25 has mentioned to me)~

bre, found some dirty pictures for you too look at here's one~

at the wheel~

have to study this one~

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

H

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

Houston we have a problem here~

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

you've already done all this, but easier to sit back and watch someone else do it~ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUFMEgrfDwg

3 out of 3 people think this is helpful.

my daughter 2000 impala same problem, trac/brake lights on dash, checked wheel sensor for broken wires and plug in. then I checked the brake fluid level in master cyclinder, it was low so I added just a little brake fluid, lights went out. tomorrow going to check brake pads. low fluid means thin brake pads. hope my solve your problems. check brake fluid level!!!!!!!!!!!! don't fill all the way up , thou if its low then you need to check your brake pads on all four corners.

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