05 impala abs/trac light is on but code reader says there are no current issues?


Asked by May 11, 2013 at 09:03 AM about the 2005 Chevrolet Impala Base

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

I have an 05 impala.  My abs/trac lights came on and my low brake fluid.  Had a loose bleeder screw and replaced it and no more leak but the abs/trac refuses to go off.  Just left the mechanic had the car on the reader and it came back passed but the lights are on.  There were codes in the history for the front right sensor.  Is this a loose wire?  Sensor actually bad? Or something else?

26 Answers

if in fact one of the ABS wheel sensors is blocked this will show that condition, but if like you said all problems were dealt with but the light remains would suggest removing the negative battery terminal for fifteen seconds and replace it....with any luck will toggle back to normal~

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

the brake fluid level is wonky and need to be looked at with this ABS system...go back and triple check to make sure the level is correct~

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

Level is good on the fluid. Already disconnected the battery last week to try and purge the history. Have done nothing to the sensor. Was assuming it was a sensor and went to have the codes pulled to see which was bad. History says front right but nothing current reading as an issue hence why I'm wondering if a wire would cause the intermittent history. Abs light has been steady though

2 of 2 people found this helpful.

Okay...gonna dig in...but I believe this has an optical sensor on the wheel/brake drum...checking...


If there is a ABS light on, you still have an issue, and I'm with Judge, one sensor is faulty or the wiring is the problem.

2 of 2 people found this helpful.

Alright so do I just replace the hub or try and om it out first to check for a broken wire before replacing it. i know the sensors go easy on this car but how often do the wires go

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

here's a nasty waste of time---but shows the components of what's involved....poor greasemonkey grobblin' down on the ground in the dirt--- >>>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUFMEgrfDwg

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

will find a source for this sensor/ring if you need---judge_roy

really surprising the amount of crud this mechanic had to remove to get at the sensor there, really would not know Bre, until you had it out and were able to test the continuity of the wires....a physical problem such as road debris gettin' all up in there and cutting the wires would be apparent~

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

oh good lord this is gonna be fun. Good thing Pittsburgh has 3 seasons snow, monsoon and fall. Gonna look like a drown rat after this lol. Thank you much. Fingers crossed its just a bad wire/connector.

2 of 2 people found this helpful.

I know with this model the sensor can't be replaced separately. Have to do the whole hub with the way it's set up but should be able to get at it to check the wires.

---you gonna have any helpers/a pneumatic ratchet (like that guy showed)...when he broke out with the electric drill with a wirebrush, should have made a pot of coffee, because by the time he was done with that brush...could have finished your novel...I used to do this type of work 15 years ago...and it's really hard on the knees and no fun at all....not too bad if you've got a lift to take it up to a sane standing level, but my days of gettin' down and dirty are over...give the Mexican kid 20 bucks for the day of gettin' all dirty for something like this~ that guy was turning loose all kind of rust dust, yet was wearing NO face mask or anything to stop him from taking it into his lungs...sometimes it just isn't worth all that...just pay a professional...not young like I used to be ambitious...but with help and some pneumatic assistance, you are brave!~

Never used to need these....kind of a luxury to have the car start applying brakes on you to keep you from skidding out....but I guess if you're where it's slidey and lousy drivin' having bessie apply whichever brake is needed to prevent an accident will save you some money....I guess~

every day is a beautiful sunny happy day in California, we moved in 1988 out here and ain't movin' back...you've got to love your falling leaves and falling icicles on your head----ice choppers so you don' t fall on your keester and Snow Tires---salt to make gravy out of your underbelly and reduce the effective life of your new car to 5 years...people in Milwaukee were just hateful and preferred to be that way...no..at home with the hippies, where they aren't going to stick you in jail for smokin' a joint~


neighbor is a helicopter mechanic and he'll give me a hand. sadly on emt pay mechanics are a luxury I can't afford. City here is built in the middle of the mountains so constantly using the brakes

...my goodness~

thinking that if there are exposed wires (not running through the chassis) unless with a protective braided sleeve (like a suit of armor) would be subject to all manner of projectiles like ICE and road debris...one customer ran over a five gallon bucket by mistake, then did not have a horn anymore, but was left with two dangling wires....so these things can happen...and lets say if you found this to be the case...severed wires, you'd have to rather adept at the soldering iron....in this case have three or four hands to hold both sides of the workpiece (wires) spool of solder, and HOT soldering iron all in a TINY space (because you're trying to save the dis-assembly inconvenience)~....all within the wheel well hood space.....sounds like a magic trick....reminds me of a headlight bulb replacement on a 2006 Prius...a San Francisco lady mechanic did this in five minutes (small hands) the Toyota official explanation is a three hour disassembly job~

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

there is an corrosion in the r/f wheel speed harness from the bearing ,cut open the harness and inspect it,you can get the harness from the connector on the bearing about 2 feet lont to repair,good luck

Best Answer Mark helpful

Joe, did you look at the video of this crappy thing? It is a permanently sealed ring with a pigtail harness that disappears into the frame, not even sure where the connector is...sure to find out when the replacement part shows up tho~ any mend would immediately go to hell from being in a harsh environment~

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

Well omed out the sensor, cleared the comp history and rescanned. Wire somewhere near the pump (?) is bad. Guess that will be next weekends job.

thanks for the progress report, Bre-having all these approval points just got to me and started from scratch as operator_13, which was my name in 1982~


Stick with the Judge_Roy name and lose the operator_13 name...Be the Guru, not the Coo-Coo!! It is your destiny as willed by the CarGuru Overlords...Shall you turn away from that which is rightfully yours??...LOL!!!


ok beyond confused. Was going to work on this issue Sunday (my day off). Today on the drive into work noticed all "idiot lights" are off and service trac alert no longer blinks when I turn the car on/off. I'm beginning to think I have a little auto elf or something tinkering with stuff when I sleep


You just might want to give some thought into dumping the '05 Impala...I just looked at Consumer Reports.org (an on-line subscription to THAT is worth it's weight in gold, IMHO). The '05 model got VERY Poor marks in: Engine Cooling, Transmission Major AND Transmission Minor, VERY Mediocre reviews in Major Engine reliability and most of the rest of the other categories....The ONLY category where it received Positive ratings are the Drive System (that's it!)...The Impala didn't see any significant improvements in ANY of these areas until the 2011 & 2012 models came out.

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

Probably need to replace the ABS Sensor harness that runs from the wheel hub to the main harness. Dorman part numbers 970-040 for the LF and 970-041 for the LR. They're more like a pigtail harness, replacing these will most likely solve the problem.


How do the Dorman parts listed above compare with ACDELCO parts? I believe they are 10340314 and 10340313.

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

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