My 1994 Corolla dies when you put it in gear.
My 1994 Corolla dies when you put it in gear. Had the car towed home where I replace
the fuel pump under rear seat as well as the in line fuel filter under the hood. Car would
not start so after these changes. Because it got to hot out (Sacramento, CA) I waited
until this morning to go back out and check to see if I had voltage at the pump
connector which I did not. I also noticed the gas gauge was not moving last night.
Today after pulling the connector and checking for voltage again at the pump I found no
voltage. I decided to cycle the ignition key a few times and all of a sudden the gas
gauge moved and the car started. One quick note I did have to pull the fuel pump
connector to check voltage and wonder if I made a better connection before I recycled
So now the car started, idling fine and even put it in gear and she ran fine which she
would not do yesterday. I decide to take her for a ride and got about 7 blocks form
home when she died again....same problem.
Here's my question, is it possible the fuel pump regulator located behind the radio is
my problem? Can this part get hot after driving where it will then stop working?
Any help out there would be appreciated.
It's possible. But I would double check the connection you were taking about. In sure there is no corrosion on any of it. Might even want to use some connection lube.
Thinking I might have a ground issue I removed both cables at the battery cleaned the battery post and both cables. Read about the radio condenser in the distributor and although I removed the distributor cap I only checked to see if there were any loose wires and there were NONE. After doing this I cycled the key again and the darn car started but died again after a few minutes running. I was able to put it in gear during it's run time and the car kept running. Walked into the garage and heard the car stop running while idling. I cycled the key and was able to get the car started but then then quit after a half minute. Now the car will only turn over but won't start. This is frustrating but do appreciated you taking the time to help... Still wondering about the fuel pump regulator for a better word that's behind the radio...your thoughts? Gary
Have you cleaned and tighten the negative battery connections on the frame and motor?
NO, didn't think about that, I'll go out and check the ground now and get back to you.....
Just something to think about. Last week was helping a friend with an old turbo 280zx. Issue kept jumping from no fire to no fuel and everything in between. We started unplugging and cleaning all wire harnesses we could find. Even shaking some while trying to start car. All the sudden the car fired up. We finished cleaning the connectors and now she runs like a new one.
Any idea WHERE they put the ground to the block? So many wires it's hard to follow any one of them to the block. Thanks Gary
It should be rather close to battery. It will be the largest black wire(about the size of your finger) going to block.
Let me tell you why this is so frustrating.....I own a classic car restoration shop so if this was a Mustang I'd have this thing fixed by now. ha ha Yes large black cable, maybe if I'd clean all this dirt off the engine I would be able to find it. Can of brake cleaner now in hand. ha I'll be back.
Lol yes the older ones are a lot easier to trouble shoot and repair. Two wires to starter. Couple wires to alternator, Couple more wires to dist&coil. Hot battery and fire her up.
OK the battery ground it tight. Fir the heck of it I removed the ground at the battery and replaced it just for the heck of it thinking and would also clear the computer. Recycled the key a few times and tried to start it with no luck. She simply turns over but won't start. Your thoughts?
The ground from the battery is attached to the chassis, and for unknown to me, "Unlike Toyota" engineering,----- goes down out of sight.
One other thing, this car has over 200K miles on it although you wouldn't know it when she's running. Could we be dealing with a coli pack?
I would start with the basic. Does it have fuel? Is fuel pressure at proper psi? Does it have fire? Is egr or pcv stuck open? Are there any other vacuum issues? Idle air control valve and throttle plate clean and operating properly?
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/103-3rd-4th-generation-1992-1996- 1997-2001/356544-diy-removal-cleaning-iac.html -- check this out about the IACV.
IACV not operating properly can give you a no start condition and a stalling when you put it in gear. I might would take a look at that if you have fuel and fire.
Lets say I am getting fuel and all the other things you mention are good could I still be having a problem with the fuel pump relay in the dash?
Im,just gona add this to what dandy is saying,i know you added new fuel pump and filter,but what i am thinking was the tank clean,form trash,the way it doe,s seem,s to big runs, good then bad,i am thinking check that pump sock for trash.
Could be but if you are getting fuel the relay is probably working properly.
Can the relay get hot causing it to stop working? Everything around the tank inlet where the pump is is clean and when you look inside the tank it's also clean.
If not the rely any chance it could be the radio condenser that's located in the distributor?
Have you checked coil pack?
It's possible but have you checked for fire at the spark plugs? If getting fire it's probably ok too.
I have not checked the coil, this car does not have a coil pack like I thought. I'm going to check spark and see if I can find the radio condenser and un-connect it to see what that does.
200k miles. How long since your last timing belt change? Yours should be changed every 60k miles. Just a though. Cause if you have the proper fuel, air and fuel mixtures then might be a timing issue. Just a thought. But would not go there until you are sure all else is ok.
Disregard my last post. Cause you had it running again after the first time it stalled.
One thing I want to check is the radio condenser that is suppose to be in the distributor which it appears NOT to be in that location. Anyone got any ideas where the condenser is lcoated?
Just changed the timing belt about two months ago and she's been running great until this problem.
Although I can't seem to find the radio condenser I did find a fluid material that looks to be coming from the dist coil so have that coming form my supplier this afternoon. I think it's time for a beer. ha I'll be back
Yes sounds like you need one or two.
First let me thank everyone who responded to my help post. The problem is fixed as far as I can see. The fix turned out to be the coil. As I was looking over everything to make sure I did not miss anything I happen to look inside the dist cap and there I found a small amount of a dark brown liquid material that I surmised came from the coil, I didn't know they were liquid filled. Replace the coil and she started right up. The cars been running for about 45 minutes without stopping which she wouldn't do before. Again, thank you thank you to all for taking the time to help. Gary
Great call T S T. CplMiller please mark his answer best answer. He nailed this one. Glad you got her back on the road.
You got it......Marked as it should be.... Thanks again Gary
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