my car will start and then die after about 10 minutes and then it will get no spark but will crank

You7 may have to replace parts inside the distrib if it has power to it. I saw a guy on ebay that rebuilds or remakes distribs complete. lifetime for a little more $ You can pick it by sight. If you need testing, I found it at the public library in a donated toyota book. Rock auto may have separate internal parts for you to fix yours. And of course ND is the best if it is your baby. They have online sales and exact correct perfect replacement parts that will probably last a very long time. Depends of course how you want to approach it.

i found a whole distributor on ebay for bout $80

i also replaced the module,coil, distrib cap and the rotery cap

Parts add up fast so you may want to find the testing procedures and expected readings. they also have auto databases at libraries. When you haave a heat related open occur in most jap distribs the ignitor has become the famous part, but any distrib that has hall effect- like parts can mimick a bad set of points and condenser. Your coil should have a power with the key on B+ side and a flash when cranking on the other for a 12v test light. Some jap power relays can fail to send the juice there from inside after the Ign switch. I would want to photocopy a schematic to take to the car, and map out my strategy. Verify the components in the system, and inspect them.

how many miles are on it? Ignition and fuel issues can act a lot alike. how did you test the " no spark issue " ? Has the car been sitting a while or is it a daily driver? when did this problem start?

The engine needs spark, fuel, compression and timing. If he cannot verify spark, and it has a coil wire, perhaps substituting a plug wire to test power from the coil is going to get spark, if he already put a whole distrib and all those parts or it's time to take it from the top and recommunicate. or he is gathering test equipment from friends or buying it.

There is about 190k miles and i bougt it that way. I have not changed the whole distrib yet just getting options from people who know more. I pulled the plug wire stuck a screw driver in it and layer over the top of the alt and it has no spark while it's hot I guess but once it is cooled down after a few hours it will start again for about ten min then die

So after you replaced all of those parts, the distributor, cap, rotor, ignition module, it will only crank and not start because there is still no spark?

I changed all that but the distrib but it will start when it is cool but only run for about 10 min then die till it cools down

Change out the distributor. There are a couple of pick ups in there. One must be fried.

Then you are looking to the testing of the ignition parts to determine the cause, suspecting an open that happens as the engine is reaching its warmest temp and experiencing vibration. The fine wire of the parts and solid state boards they can often have are suspect. all the ignition part tests there are relevant as well as the air gap. a power relay that supplies the power there may not be located exactly there, but can suffer from the same malady. When you find need to, check it for electrical odor.

Any history of getting overheated can lead to this, as well as, just being where they put them and being in service for the time. sadly, aftermarket parts fail at least twice as often.

He did not replace any "ignition module" and the terminology is getting pretty far off toyota parts. the confusion alone sends him back to the top of the postings to reread and find what's what. Then get his tests to perform, the specs, the part names, and the readings of those tests.

Then he must retest when the engine dies and see what went open in what part shown by the test is failed when the parts are experiencing it. This is why technicians charge real money for real tools, books, knowledge, and procedures.

This was 4 years ago. Did Rick find out the problem?

Ok, I'll add my two bits. 1.The weather on the day is important: hot it stalls; cold it goes. Do you really think the o2 sensor that operates at 500 degree would care if its raining outside. 2. Let the car cool and it will start and run again - but not as long. Under the air filter is a sensor that CHECKS THE AIR TEMPERATURE going into the throttle. My sensor had wiggles itself out and was sitting in the engine bay. It was now checking the air temperature in the engine bay. I put it back in and presto problem solved. The operation of the sensor can be tested in warm water. Check the water temperature and measure the resistance across the sensor. Google has charts between temp and resis. Listen to the driver he told you about the weather problem, but no one listened.

Did you ever figure out what was wrong with your Celica mine's doing the exact same thing