I took my car to that mechanic three times after he "worked" on it (he did rear
main seal, timing belt, water pump, plugs, wires, distributor cap, valve cover
gasket). And every time I went back, there was a new problem. Like the power
steering fluid leak he says that I have, that I've never had to put fluid in for. And
it's supposedly leaking from the distributor now (he replaced some kind of O
ring there or so he says plus he replaced the new valve cover gasket also ...).
Oh, and it's still trying to stall out on me at red lights after it gets good and
warm. Really bad idling issue. He told me it was the throttle idle body - cleaned
it up he said, but no. That didn't fix it. At all. Right now, I barely trust her to get
me to the store a mile from my house. From what I read in my book, it could be
12 different things. EGR valve or PCV valve, vacuum leaks, air filter clogged (I
know it isn't this), leaking head gasket, timing belt worn (just replaced that so
no), camshaft lobes worn, valves need adjusting or they're burned/leaking,
ignition timing out, dirty or clogged injectors, idle speed out of adjustment,
ignition timing out of adjustment .... and I don't know where to start.
Well you are right, but first i would try the idle control valve, but it sounds like you need someone else looking at this, so many things that you could just be throwing monies at.
Yeah money I dnt want to waste.. I have a video of what it's doing and sounds like I'll try post .. https://youtu.be/I6MM5zFHM8U
This one u can really hear it https://youtu.be/b5Hk9ebJT8I
Well I listened to it, popping out the exhaust. Not the head gasket. It definitely has to do with fuel. Idle control valve would not cause it to pop. Valve adjustment would be a good idea, How does it accelerate? What does it sound like driving it?
Cold start not as bad.. but when it starts geting to normal runnin temp it starts to stall out at stop and sound like video
My best guess would be to have the valves / rocker arms checked, and adjusted. Then the EGR system needs to be inspected to see if it works. There is a Vacuum Modulator, a EGR Valve Control Solenoid, and the EGR valve that all are expensive. You'd want to know for sure somethings bad before replacing. So I would look around for someone else to look at this, the one mechanic just like you coming back cause your so cute. There must be a million miles on this thing, trade it in, it is at the point that it is not worth putting money into it.
Yeah over 200,000 .. understand what you are saying ..@ this point in time, trade in or another car isn't an option unfortunately .. Thank you for answering me and ur advice
it's a cool car- and that mileage isn't so high for these- you just went to the wrong mechanic, that's all- find a good mechanic- you will know it is a good garage when they listen to your story with sympathy and offer to look at it for a small fee- yes, you are out the money, but it happens to everybody- really-
Ok.. I tried taking it by auto zone for them to hook thier computer up to see if it stored a code(since they offer that free).. they said they couldn't because it was a 92.. is there any other auto store that offers that?
Auto Zone must be using a cheaper scanner or did not have the right hook-up to the ALDL connector. Thats a good path to take. Your car has the OBD1 computer in it which is the old one, up to 95' they used that computer. You find someone who can read OBD1 code, call around to different parts stores. Another way to read those codes from the OBD1, at least on a Chevy, is to jumper A & B terminals on the plugin, with the key on. The check engine light will flash in a certain sequence, like for example, 3 faster flashes, then maybe 1 flash, like mores code. Each sequence means a number. It is the number that you are trying to get. So, I would look on line in how to read yours.
Oh thank u so much
You won't find a parts store that will read the obd1 toyota. Each make had their own connector. Did it do this before the timing belt job? Sounds like it didn't get put on right
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