Why does my 2001 Toyota Camry XLE V6 not pull and just stop?
I recently got my brake pads, rotors all around, tie rod, and caliper changed
on my car. The car was working fine before any of this was changed out
but now it will not pull correctly and it stops on its on when you let off the
gas. I recently also changed out the master cylinder. My brother-in-law who
is fixing the car thought I needed a brake booster because my pedal was
dropping to the floor after a few pumps, but once he put it on my car
started malfunctioning. I haven't had my car in a month and no one can
figure out whats going on. I personally believe they didn't bleed the master
cylinder correctly the first time and thats why the pedal was falling. I don't
believe I needed a brake booster at all. Especially because I hear those
rarely go out. I just want to know does anyone know why my car might be
stopping on its own when I let off the gas? Also the car pulls and shifts fine
but it seems like the car pulls harder at times because the brakes are
holding it back from going forward properly. The pedal is also
EXTREMELY tight! You can just tap them and the car stops. Its just not
normal. Someone please help! And if I haven't given you enough detail just
ask me and I will tell you more.
Possibly a collapsed brake hose. And yes, you are correct, you must bench bleed the master cylinder before installing, and then bleed it again after installation. I'm not sure what you mean by "pull," as in pulls to one side when you're stopping, or "drags" as in feels like it's being held back while accelerating. The caliper(s) must also be bled when they are changed. You are also correct in that the symptom of pumping the pedal to stop before eventually going to the floor is NOT a brake booster issue. Your booster runs off the intake to make it easier to stop. A bad booster would make your brake pedal seem very difficult to press down and come to a stop. My advice would be to check brake hoses for any that may be collapsed. If they're good, then you'll need to remove the master cylinder, bench bleed it first, re-install it and bleed it while attached to the booster. Then bleed whichever calipers were replaced and you should be good to go.
It's also possible that if the master cylinder wasn't bled properly before installation and you drove the car, there may be air further downstream in the brake lines requiring the rears to be bled also
I'll try everything you all said and tell u how it went! Thank you both so much.
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