car stalls when slowing down or at complete stop
car dies out when slowing down to make turn or at traffic or stop signs.i have put in shop twice and they
could not figure out problem even after they clean fuel system and change EGR valve.thinking electrical?
Here is one of my favorite comprehensive engine tests this might help you in this situation. .......... You should get between 17-22 in. hg. depending on your elevation above 2000 feet MSL or mean sea level. To perform this test hook vacuum gauge directly to manifold vacuum. 1. Low steady needle usually indicates leaky intake, a leaky vacuum hose, late timing, or incorrect camshaft timing. 2. If reading is 3-8 inches low and fluctuates at that low reading suspect an intake manifold gasket leak at intake port or faulty injector. 3. If the needle has regular drops of about 2-4 in hg. at a steady rate the valves are probably leaking. (Perform a compression check). 4. An irregular drop or down flick of the needle can be caused by a sticking valve or an ignition misfire. 5. A rapid vibration of about four in hg. indicates worn valve guides. 6. Slight fluctuation of one inch or so indicates ignition problems. 7. Large fluctuation perform a compression check. 8. If needle moves slowly through a wide range check for PCV issues. Hope this gives you a good place to start and helps you figure it out.
check out the distributor ignitor!
Does the shop clean the throttle body 1st ?
Toyota Engines all have that common problem with the dirty chocked with black carbon on the throttle body flap and the idle control valve. I would suggest to clean the throttle body flap and the idle control valve. Take the whole throttle body out and remove the idle control valve. keep the idle control valve gasket in a safe place. Those cleaner will damage the gasket. The idle control valve can be clean! I use WD40 or equivalent lubricant to clean. use a tiny flathead screwdriver to push the spring loaded flap and check if it is still movable or not. If not replace the idle control valve, also get a new gasket for it. If still movable just keep spray the WD40 and moving the flap back and forth. and wipe clean with a rag.
i am having the same issue with my car and i just replaced a torn intake hose, my mechanic believes it could be a faulty idle air control valve or whatever and they said it could also be a temp sensor or something. everybody i take to from mechanics to aftermarket shops all point to the iac so im just fixing that first and recleaning the throttlebody
Just had the same issue, and the crankshaft position sensor wire had been rubbing on the water pump pulley that the serpentine belt rides on. This would cause the wires inside to touch and kill the car at stop lights or stop signs, or hard left and right turns. My mechanic said when I replaced the water pump some six months ago I never got the small wire harness tucked all the way into the harness holder thus giving me this annoying problem down the line. $97.00 dollars for new crankshaft position sensor, and $79.00 for diagnostic check and i'm happy, happy, happy. Hope this helps someone else.
I have a 2004 toyota celica gts, I was getting the code p0171, so people say they usually replace the o2 sensor before the cat, so i replaced the o2 still got the code, so then changed out my maf sensor changed all hoses, cleaned throttle body, cleaned injectors, checked plugs, which I believe they are all good, but car takes two times to crank and every once in a while stalls when coming to a stop or turning. I noticed that there is no sensor connector hooked to one of my vacuum air connectors when i got the car, but never gave me problems, but could be it be spark plugs or that missing connector to one of the air vacuum connectors?
Just turn it on and put parking brake for 30 mins rpm more than one if you can is good, it's a computer problem all cars that get battery reset need to manually do this, I've had experience and fixed it three times
It's the ECT Sensor from my experience. My 2004 Camry with 135,000 miles started to stall at stops once the engine warmed up. Not while driving, but at stops with no dashboard warning lights (i.e., engine light was not on/flashing). I had to keep it reved while stopping. This happened on my way home on Black Friday morning after running an errand. After reading tons of posts, I gave the ECT Senor fix a try first. My local Pep Boys didn't have the sensor in stock, so they had to ship it from a different store and I picked it up the next day. Normally, it was $62, but a Black Friday weekend special knocked it down to about $40. It was super easy to install (I found a Youtube video on how to replace it) and my car hasn't had any stalling issues since (nearly 3 weeks, knock on wood).
We have a 1992 Toyota Corona 2l 3FSE engine, it started running rough and not idling smoothly, stalling on acceleration from a stop, generally being unreliable, Toyota said it was the idle motor, (now obsolete so 2nd hand unit) a little better but not right, Friend then suggested the 02 sensor, sourced the correct unit on Alibaba and this made a vast improvement but still not right, I picked up on a comment that it could be the temperature sensor, again found the correct unit on Alibaba, now running so smooth and reliable, may be good for another 400,000k,
While driving 140 speed no problem. In case of slow down vehicle is getting vibrating and off acceleration is pover and missing . I have consult more than 10 Garage. Nobody can give perfect solution. Somebody please advise. I have changed below list of items crank shaft sensor both switch beside the engine brass mettle 4 plugs, fuel pump set, throttle body air flow sensor Exhaust manifold.
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