94 camry le 4cylinder starts when cold, shuts off when motor heats up. Cranks but won't start after it dies
recently had distributor cap, rotor, and ignition coil replaced. Also had new spark plugs
and wires installed. Drove great for about a month. drove about 15 minutes shut off engine
and tried to restart about 10 minutes later. Cranks but wont start unless engine cool.
shuts off after a few minutes, not getting spark when hot. replaced igniter on drivers side
fenderwell. still not starting. Any ideas?
yes. ambient air sensor.
cannot find one, but as the temperature increases, the air-fuel ratio needs to be made lean if not it gets snuffed out...somebody is responsible for this change in fuel ratio due to change in outside temp vs. operating temp...think that it's an ambient sensor, but cannot locate one for your year...have to call it a night...see what we can do for you tomorrow.~
Sounds like it's the ignition module on the side of your distributor. If you have no spark, as in zero when hot, check your module. When the engine is hot, they typically fail. If the engine quits when hot again, cool the ignition module down with some ice. If it starts immediately, there's your problem. Or while the car is running, tap on it. If the car quits or bucks, that is also a tell tale sign. If you have no idea what one looks like, go to Youtube and type in "ignition module".
okay, took me more than "a night" because this goodie is also called the "air charge" sensor...same dealiebob~ http://www.stockwiseauto.com/product_info.php/products_id/220302/fit_id/ 8201/Year/1994/Make/Toyota/Model/Camry/source/googleps? gclid=CPP2muWKwLsCFcTm7Aodw28Apw
it is located on the side of your intake plenum...measures incoming air temp and adjusts the air/fuel ratio accordingly~
why there's no spark.....I'm suspecting the MAIN ground connection is iffy from repeated 300 amp or more starts leaving a layer of "semi-conductor" made of the lug and chassis combined in a firey 300 amp connection...repeatedly...clean lug and chassis with a wirebrush to make sure that "brown power" does not interfere with the ignition system...for example the ignition relay will see 12 volts or it will drop out leavin' you with no spark...I believe this is what's happening there~
Just because you are not getting spark don't mean that the ing. module is bad their is a test for checking it . It could also be the ECU I have had at least 4 cars when they said it was the module and they replaced it and did the same thing cut off when hot and not restart . Then they give up and brought them to me and I tested them and found that the ECU has a bad problem with the ground to the dist.when it gets hot it opens connection. If you replace the module and get the same problem maybe this will help.
So my ignition modual has a crack in it and is doing this is this my problem or?
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