2000 outback driving it yesterday without notice shut off and now will crank but not turn over replaced the fuel pump and filter. timing belt is still in good shape. were do i look next
Did the CEL come on? I'd guess crank sensor but I'm not saying just buy one without knowing. Let us know if you have a code (or several) to share first.
Did you also replace the fuel sending unit I had the same problem andmy sending unit had a crack in it so had to replace the whole thing This is the whole assembly that is in the fuel tank
I will try that thanks it acts like there is comparison but not sure what that means.
The sending unit is expensive check to make sure it wasn't already replaced when your fuel pump was . The fuel pump fits in side of the sending unit assembly . I know when I had mine done they just replaced the whole unit including the fuel pump This is a job you can do your self the fuel unit is under the back seat ( at least it is in my 2001 outback ) and is very easy to get at just be careful noiy to lose the screws that hold the cover down
also the crank sensor ray be the culprit and it is a lot less expensive that the sending unit. I changed mine out before I did the sending unit ( which may have been my problem to begin with )
Keith, is a cracked SU a common problem? Seems like a rare scenario but I'm curious. So SJ, no codes? Orange engine light or check engine light (CEL)? Parts places will usually check for free to lure you to buy the parts while you're there. Then again, you can't really check without the car running to get you there.
I work at Autozone and do a free check engine light service but I ALWAYS tell customers our check engine light service is to give the our customers a starting point on seeing what is wrong with their car I always tell them to do a little more research before buying parts for it . I do not know if the cracked sending unit is a common problem they only found it by having my fuel pump replaced twice I would go with the crank sensor first it is less costly
Tested it there is no comparison on the two passenger side could be a value issue or is my motor done.
I am not sure what you mean by saying "comparsion "
Swap in crank or cam sensor to test, as they're cheap. Often no CEL because car didn't start! Note that testing compression works well only if ALL plugs are removed. I'd check for spark, but it's unlikely to be the coil pack causing a no-start (usually just a misfire, with relevant CEL).
no compression on 1 and 3. would it be the teeth on the timing belt. we pull the value cover the value springs look good. when i drove it just stopped i did not hear anything or the car acted funny in anyway. or would in be a bent value stem.
All modern Subie motors use a unitized singular cam drive, so it can't be the t-belt. You could try dropping the front exhaust and taking a peek up there on the right side. Lost compression on BOTH 1 and 3, huh? Need another cuppa coffee for this one, as I doubt it could be your head gasket. But....
SJ, are you looking for bubbles in the coolant when you're checking the compression? pull the oil dipstick and smell/listen/feel for air (rings)? listen/feel for air at the tailpipe and intake for valves. What's your compression on 2 and 4? And you're absolutely 100% positive you have spark and fuel (there IS fuel in the tank, right?)??
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