What is the difference on engine model numbers?
I have a 1993 Subaru Loyale Wagon 4WD that I am replacing timing belt. When
ordering online for parts it ask which model engine:
Base H4 1.8L vin 41781cc TBI gas SOHC.
Base H4 1.8L vin 51781cc TBI gas SOHC
I have tried to find and understand the difference and which one is my vehicle,
online, Chilton Book and even my car, without success. Can someone please
Does it have something to do with whether or not my car has air conditioning?
Sorry if a dumb question. Thank you
Hi and thanks for the quick reply. I do have my vin number and looked for similar numbers.... Maybe there is a code? : ) JF2AN52B4PD4O4800
I would replace both timing belts and belt tensioners with idler pulleys. Here is a sight with no complications, this is what I recommend... https://www.carid.com/1993-subaru-loyale-engine-parts/dayco-engine-timing-belt-kit-57968626.html
If the timing belt has not broke or jumped time, take note of the timing marks locations, get them lined up before taking the belts off, seems this is a difficult one to do.
Rowefast, thank you for the reply. The belt did not break (drivers) side but many of the teeth were missing...does this mean it jumped?
Yes it probably did, timing marks will need to be aligned up. But first I need to check if this is an interference engine or not. Does it say any where if this is a Single Over Head Cam (SOHC) or a Double Over Head Cam (DOHC)?
Ok, this is not a interference engine so your ok. Here is a diagram on the timing marks in case you need this.
Hello, thank you for the diagram, I was going to send a photo. I wondered if this had anything to do with my original question regarding engine model. I am having a hard time finding out when ordering timing belt kit.
I showed you where you can get a timing belt kit. I checked on my other stores I use and shows the same thing. Check this one out, it says it is for the 1.8L engine... http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1993/subaru/loyale/engine_mechanical/timing_belt.html
Would you like for me to check out the sight your looking at? Just post it and I'll see what it says.
I would really appreciate it. It's Oreillys Auto Parts, once I put in year, make, it will ask the last question...... (see photo)
Here is a pic of my engine, obviously not taken down
Ok, I'm back. for some reason it is asking for a vin character so what is the vin on this vehicle. I'm going to look this up right now....
Ok, looked it up, the vin number does not matter on this part, I looked up both of what you were showing and it still comes up with the same part number. Now I would suggest you go with the kit which has the new idler, and belt tensioners. So I see a big difference in price, I don't see anything wrong with going with the Cloyes kit. Part #BK299 for $71.99, at least at the store where I live it is this price.
Hey TrannyMan, what your looking at with the vin is the 8th character is what they were asking for, but it ends up on this part it does not matter, same part for each vin. and that also says up there for a 1781cc TBI gas engine. That is not her vin number.
Well the 9th character.
Ok, thank you both very much. I know that this is a big job and one that everyone has told me not to challenge. But it's a risk I'm willing to take and my dad has always taught me .."if you are going to do something, do it right". So far, I'm reading and looking at videos to make sure I get it right. I thank you and I am happy to know there are experienced men out there to help. I'm sure this is not my last question : )
You can do it! We'll be here if you have any questions...
Hi folks. Yes, only one set of belts. Be EXTREMELY careful to not upset the cam pulley orientations when mounting the belts and tensioners. You can easily be off one tooth and run at lower power without a CEL...really annoying. Note that this design is notorious for having under-strength t- belts...especially on the left (distributor/driver) side. I've seen a NEW belt snap after 20 minutes, though the mean life is about 4-5 years. So many problems that Subie finally junked it for a much stouter design using a tensioner and unitized single belt in the 1990 Legacy 2.2. The old 1.8i was renamed and produced for three years longer as the Loyale just to meet a lower price point. Good luck, but again, recheck cambelt positions BEFORE reassembly. Also note oil-leaks around cam or crank pulley seals...and maybe that oil pump o-ring seal too.
Hello, having a hard time removing crankshaft pulley. The ac condenser is a burden and in the way for easier access to crankshaft pulley. Any suggestions would be helpful. This is my first time replacing timing belt. Please advise. Thank you.
Well, you need some leverage. I suspect you do not have air tools, but thats ok, you need something like a bar, big screwdriver, something with a good shaft to stick threw those holes and find a point threw those holes to anchor the one end on something against the engine, that will not cause damage to, have to hold that while breaking the crankshaft nut and the 4 bolts loose. Once you get them loose then they will just come out. I want to mention also, for the timing belt kit, make sure there are the oil seals with it, "O" ring seals that should be replaced also. If those are not in the kit investigate that.
WARNING! This is ultraquick, but be careful: stick wrench and long arm on crank and prop against ground. Then go crank the starter for a half-second; your pulley will be loose. Note that you CANNOT retighten it when you're done the same way, so get a lang breaker arm to get up to high torque.
Subaru sold a special jig to hold the cams steady for belt alignment, but moist guys (inc you) found other means to "pin" the pulleys in place. Those were the days, eh?
I did it!!! Yaay : )
Good for you...you can do it!
I think I have God on my side. It actually took a long time for me. But so happy.
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