When replacing rotors on a 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GT, do the bearings need to be pressed? Thanks in advance
The bearings are sealed in a hub in the center of the knuckle, the rotors sit over them. The wheel lugs are a part of the bearing assembly. If you are just replacing the rotors then there is no need to do anything with the bearings. what you'll need is a four way or an air wrench to take off the lugs. 1. Loosen the wheel lugs. 2. Put the parking brake on and block the wheels to prevent the car from rolling when any wheels will still be in contact with the ground after jacking. 3. Jack up the car just enough to put a jack stand under the frame and to also clear the tire from the ground for removal. Leave the jack up under the car for extra support but lower it onto the jack stands first, and either lift or remove the jack handle if possible to prevent tripping hazards. 4. Finish removing the lug nuts. 5. Remove the tire and rim 6. Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap that's under the hood. 7. Next you'll need to relieve the pressure of the caliper piston against the brake pads. To do this I use a wide and long screw driver or one of those short versions of an L shaped tire iron. Just stick it through the brake caliper hole, in the top center, down into the rotor web (the edges of the rotors have segmented pockets with about an inch of depth to them) and carefully pry towards you. This will push the piston back into its housing. You do not have to pry it all the way back, just enough to clear the caliper from the pads, probably a good quarter inch will do. 8.Using a socket wrench and probably a 15mm socket , size may differ but my 98 Pontiac Grand Prix GT has inter changeable parts with a 2001 so it's probably the same. Take that socket and loosen both brake caliper bracket bolts. They are the bolts that connect the caliper bracket to the knuckle, not the ones in the caliper. 9. Get a piece of wire ready to hang the caliper and bracket from the strut spring.to prevent damage to the rubber or metal brake line hoses. Now is a good time to inspect the brake pads to see if they need to be replaced as well. 10. Simply slide the rotor towards you to remove the rotor. 11. Place new rotor on 12. Using a lug nut screw it all the way down against the rotor to hold it in place. 13. Re-position the caliper and bracket over the rotor and put some blue thread locker on the cleaned off bolts (clean meaning thoroughly getting everything out of the threads) old hardened thread locker will do no good to keep these bolts in place. If you do not have good struts they will rattle out without a good cleaning and blue thread locker. 14. Pump the brake pedal to engage the brake caliper piston against the brake pads. NOTE: if you had trouble re-installing the pads because they fell out in the process of re-positioning the bracket with caliper, then you may need to leave the pads out and skip the thread locker for the moment to put the caliper and bracket back onto the knuckle to give you leverage to remove the caliper from the bracket to see how the pads fit into place on the bracket. If you need to do this the caliper bolts only have about an inch of thread and sometimes like to be stuck and spin as if you haven't un-threaded them all the way yet so you may need to tug on them for removal. Let me know if you have this trouble. If you do not encounter this trouble carry on to the next # 15. So the bracket is on the knuckle along with the caliper and pads and the cleaned and blue thread locker on the tightened bracket to knuckle bolts and you have pumped the brake pedal down. Now replace the brake fluid reservoir cap. 16 Remove the lug nut that was used to hold the rotor in place. 17. Replace the tire and rim. 18. Replace the lug nuts in a clockwise fashion skipping one each time until all are hand tight. 19. Lift the car with the hand jack to remove the jack stand from under the frame and lower the vehicle. 20. Tighten the wheel lug nuts to 100lbs torque. 21. Remove the wheel blocks and release the parking brake. 22. Start the car and take it for a test drive around the block. if you hear any noises or feel something non-ordinary write it down and form another question to ask us helpful people. I hope this is enough information to get your problem solved.
Once the caliper is off, the rotor should slide off the wheel lugs. It might be rusted on though......http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xhPqWu_f7WM
That above is the non-brake bleeding way and others may say it's best to bleed the brakes to remove air in the lines and to inspect the color and/or viscosity of the fluid. Good brakes are detrimental to safe driving but if you have recently replaced the fluid, then I wouldn't worry about bleeding unless you have a spongy brake pedal that doesn't like to immediately yet gradually engage the brakes as it should normally.
I would have thought that good brakes are INSRUMENTAL to safe driving, but I guess the other way is more exciting.
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