Brake pedal to the floor???
OK, so I've replaced; the brake pads, rotors, fluid AND master cylinder, and it still
goes to the floor. The first thing I did before replacing the master cylinder I completely
changed the fluid (MAN was is dirty) trying the cheapest fix first, to no avail. After I
received the master cylinder I bled it as required prior to installing. After installing the
master cylinder I , again, bled the system. Now it does the same thing it did before I
started. I have read that I should change the master cylinder (even though it is new it
is a strong consideration). Is there ANYTHING else I should try first??
Bleed the system again. It sounds like you have air in the lines (since you did not mention any fluid leaks). Proper bleeding is critical so have someone help. Do not let the master cylinder pull in any air by keeping it full when the other person opens and closes each wheel valve. If you try to do it yourself, you would not be able to see if the master is sucking air when the wheel valve is open and the pedal depressed.
I know this post is old. But I had the same issue and putting this out there to maybe help anybody else. I inserted the brake pads backwards. Not with the wrong side facing to the rotor LOL. But believe it or not the brake pad with the indicator letting you know the brake pads are getting low had to be on the inside. When I had it the other way with the indicator on a outside of the rotor I could not get breaks I spent two days bleeding this fucking thing bought calipers all the way around the car and what is going to change the master cylinder and figured it was probably a waste of time but I tried it anyway and I'll be damned if it did not fix the problem.
Replace broke break lines then bleed them and now my pedal goes real musse. If I pump then as driving pedal getts harder
After removing reservoir cap pushing in the front calipers and installing new pads found pedal going to floor when engine running. System had 2 year old calipers and rotors, system bleed to include ABS. Then changed master cylinder 2 times thinking old one it went bad and possible bad one from parts store. Total system bleed 4 times during total process thus far. Jacked front end up put in gear hit brake right wheel stopped left didn't, turned off key when wheels stopped put in park. Removed Drivers side caliper and bleed system, now it stops like a dream pedal/brakes fine again.
I have a 2000 grand am replaced master cylinder brake lines bleed the master cylinder lines abs box come to find out if you may be having trouble having to get new pads prior to changing cylinder I'd you wld have to change them constantly are pads going off foundation scrubbing any ways had the same problem turned out had a hair line fracture In the caliber letting air in and no fluid out no garage couldn't fix it told me to sale my car I bought a new caliber and bleed the system that fixed it what happened was the calipers get really hot on these cars causing them to crack but not enough for even the best mechanic to see the hair line fracture prevented fluid from squirting out the fracture but wld let air in causing no pedal having to drive down the road n pump pedal 4-5 times then gain a pedal check your calipers
If it was dirty u have a wheel cylinder clogged up are somehow have a slight fracture in front caliber which will let air in won't leak a drop of fluid and can't get a pedal if u can while driving it n pumping it 5-6 times ur caliber is your problem
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