My 2001 4 cyc Grand Am has started hesitating when I start it, it sometimes stalls when I start it, and rattles a bit when I drive. This has just started and I need any adice to finding out what is wrong with it. Thank you for your help.

70

Asked by Jun 24, 2013 at 01:07 PM about the 2001 Pontiac Grand Am SE

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

19 Answers

could you connect an OBD-II scanner what would tell us what is going on here?

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
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I don't have one but if it would be handy for my car and repairs I could get one.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
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I just saw a post about people having issues with the dash clicking in the Grand Am cars. My car has been doing this for over a year and now the blinker does work sometimes. If I turn the blinker one and the hazards lights on at the same time most of the time the blinker will work again. I have always been told at the sop that it is fine, and nothing to worry about. I'm a little worried now.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

check your battery....check the age...there are knockoff labels indicating the date of the first charge...if older than five, get a new one...assure the end of the black cable what connects to the chassis/ground has a good connection and is happy with pulling at least 300 CCA~ with solid ground your dash troubles may disappear~

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

...use a wirebrush...make it nice and shiny and happy with pullin' the big amps...the fat ole' 1/0 cable goin' to the motor block attached to the spot near the alternator and going to the chassis ground is also important....use a wirebrush to insure the 300 cold cranking amps will go thru~

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
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The battery is not the issue. I just bought it, and I know about the dates. It is only 2 years old. I did go down and double check it and it fine. I will have the autozone double check it for me when I go there today just to be safe. I was told by a car guy that it may be the water pump, but my car has never over-heated. He said it may also be the alternator.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

wow...that's a flight...your waterpump would begin dripping from the "weep" hole put there so you know will be self-destructing if not mended~ the alternator should be putting out 14.5-15.5 volts and a variable (depending on your battery needs) amperage up to 30 amps~ (headlights...etc)~ should not be a concern unless your battery is found DOA~

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

Did anyone consider the accessories belt tensioner...is on a spring loaded arm with an idler pulley at the end...wears and could be the source of your scary sounds~

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Doesn't still have V-belts...think that they are all FLAT belts...yes it has a tensioner...and YES they get squaggeley and cause problems...consider a new arm with pulley...and new flat belt~

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
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No one has mention any belts. I will have to remember that and ask when I take it in to the shop. I appricate your help. Thank you. If you think of anything else I welcome it. I won't stop until it is fixed and safe.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

I might consider a second ground cable (in addition to your present 1/0 cable) running from battery to firewall, just to be certain the instrument/dash is getting the ground it needs~

...okay, researching, I am WRONG about the arm this one's got an eccentric on a cast piece----here's what's goin' down in the city~

..well it is an arm...albeit a short one...good idea to replace this wear item~

look at those prices...this is boilerplate work here~

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No rust. I live down near Mexico. Very hot and dry. The heat does seems to make the car run harder. The ac works great though

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What is the second ground wire cable? I am not familiar with some part names

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What does the belt tensioner do?

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

the flat belt only needs a certain amount of force to do it's job, the tensioner assures that there is enough force so the belt doesn't slip or squeal~

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

well if the grounding from your current spot isn't making it's way up to the instrument panel was merely suggesting we don't fight that connection anymore but instead provide a second wire from the battery to the firewall...a kind of creative way to insure the instrument panel is gettiing the ground it needs....but if the grounding is sufficient....forget this then~

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