P0102 code regarding MAF what does it mean?

Asked by Jul 08, 2013 at 01:06 PM about the 2004 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GT Spyder

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

04 Eclipse Spyder 3.0 V-6 convertible threw out P0102 code.  I cleaned MAF and throttle
body and it ran better.  After looking into changing rear bank of plugs and removing a
couple of brackets around the top of engine the car won't start now.  Front plugs are
changed, I abandoned the rear plugs but it seems there is an issue from my moving a
few things out of the way.  Actually nothing I loosened moved more than 1-3 inches so it
isn't easy trying to figure out what could've happened to prevent the car from starting.  So
far I've checked the MAF (good) the air intake (good) hoses to air intake and checked
visually for exposed wires.  I found and covered some remotely exposed wire (no metal
showing) beneath the sheathing on top of throttle body.  So far, nothing.  Help!

5 Answers


Modern 21st century computer controlled cars are not meant to be worked on by amateurs- we lost the ability to fix our own cars once the digital demons invaded our chariots- since you have already begun wrenching on this car, it is almost impossible for me to tell what may be going on- maybe another guru wiser than me can help- let's see


sounds like you didn't get something plugged back in, or what ever you were moving around accidently unplugged something or possibly shorted something out and blew a fuse. So might wanna go through ALL the fuses and see if you can find any that are blown. also what are these wires you found bare and what do you mean you "covered them" ? if there is more than one that is bare and are touching each other or even one bare and touching something metal then it could be shorting out blowing a fuse or just preventing the car from starting, of if one is broken that would mess stuff up as well,, what's it act like when you turn it over does it sound like its wanting to fire up ? need to make sure your getting spark and fuel both... also how did you clean that maf ? tell me you used the correct stuff because they are extremely frail, also where all did you spray that cleaner on ? and what all did you clean ?

Daniel I cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner and the throttle body with Throttle Body cleaner. Both were allowed to dry 20-30 mins. At the same time I replaced the air filter, changed the oil, and installed 3 platinum spark plugs in the front bank and cleaned out the chambers and the plug wires, which were oil fouled. Then I started the engine and it ran much better. I was going to move on and inspect the brakes at this point but thought I would try to get a better idea of how much was going to be involved in removing the rear bank of plugs. So I removed the 10mm screws from two brackets at the front of the engine (were crank sensor is), two 8mm screws holding down the MDP on top of the intake and then loosened the screw on a bracket above the distributor but stopped when I saw where the plug wires were. That was it. I immediately replaced the two 8mm screws and the two brackets at the front of the engine. I didn't open any sensors and nothing could move more than a couple of inches regardless. I looked around to make sure I didn't leave any tools in the engine bay and had a cup of coffee. When I came back I attempted to start the car to position it better to remove the front wheel to inspect the brakes. Thats when it wouldn't start. Since then I have: - checked and rechecked all fuses (with a test light) - checked all the sensors and wires to make sure nothing was loose and there were no apparent shorts. - Checked that the air intake was in place and tightly sealed and the housing for the air filter was tightened down and those connections were tight, which they were. - I checked the plug wires, which were fine. - I visually inspected the area at the front of the engine above the pulleys to make sure nothing fell down and hit the belt. There was nothing I could see and nothing had fallen under the car. - All screws and connectors were replaced and tightened. - Next I checked the wires at the distributor to make sure nothing was loose. Everything was tight (and I hadn't touched the dist. anyway) - I checked all the fuses with a test light and later removed and visually checked every fuse. All were good. I even replaced a couple with new ones just to be sure if the visual inspection was questionable (there were a few dirty fuses and I wanted to be sure each was intact). So up to this point this was all that had been done: Oil change, clean MAF, Throttle Body, replaced 3 front plugs and air filter and cleaned plug wires and each plug chamber, which were oil fouled. At this point the engine ran strong. It was only after removing the 3-4 brackets around the manifold and the MDP on top of the intake that the engine didn't start. In the interim I didn't leave the car and nobody else could have touched anything. After the car failed to start I began checking around the sensors to make sure nothing had broken or moved out of place or wasn't replaced properly. The only wires that were remotely questionable were some wires that were visible from beneath the corrugated sheathing above the distributor. There was no exposed copper or metal on any wires/ I just wrapped them in electrical tape to be sure since the sheathing was tattered. There were no visibly exposed wires that I could find that might could short out. By this point I started questioning the guys at my local auto parts stores for ideas on what could have happened. Of course, like you, many suspected I had screwed something up somehow but I hadn't done anything else. So far I have removed the positive battery cable and tapped it three times (a suggestion to signal the computer somehow?) and let it sit a 5-10 mins. It did nothing. I also disconnected the positive cable (without tapping it against the terminal) and replaced it after 10 mins with no effect. I did the same with the negative cable. These were suggestions from various car people and mechanics. Now I didn't have any diagnostic tools other than a OBDII scanner. I ran that for codes before doing anything at all. I got a code P0102 (which was regarding the MAF sensor). Initially the "check engine" light and "service" were on. After cleaning the MAF, throttle body and replacing air filter and plugs I held down the mileage reset button on for 10 seconds and those lights went out. I erased the P0102 code with the scanner as well. That was the only code. This is a friends car and I don't know how long those lights were on prior to my seeing the car. I also think the car has been poorly maintained although he says he had it serviced regularly. So does that answer your questions and help in any way?


It does but sorta stumps me really,, maybe try starting car without the maf plugged in is one way to see if it is bad, can you scan it again and get any codes and then try to start it without the maf plugged in, I didn't realize you had a scanner at your disposal other wise would of suggested you rescan it to get and up to date code, also I say scan before you try to start without maf plugged in so that you don't generate a new code for no maf plugged in if that makes any sense to you,,, im sorta thinking your maf may of took a dump on you even though you cleaned it with maf cleaner if you have a karman vortex maf, and im pretty sure you do, a lot of cleaners will destroy them (I trust you atleast only spray cleaned the maf and did not rub a qtip or something else on it to clean it), some other things that maybe the problem is bad ecu, crank angle sensor, or Camshaft Position Sensor, and you mentioned you messed with or in the area of the crank angle sensor,,,are you SURE you didnt disturb the crank angle sensor ??? even if you didnt remove it, you may of upset it somehow,maybe you didnt but with out me being there its hard for me to totally know what all went on and what you did exactly so dont think im talking down or negative in anyway,,,also need to verify that its getting spark and fuel both ,,, so trusting you got every wire pluged back in and didnt break any id say the likely culprits so far are Camshaft Position Sensor, crank angle sensor, ecu, maf .. i should note incase you dont know the Camshaft Position Sensor is in the distributor cap,, also,, just a little tip, do not tap your positive battery cable onto the battery terminal, its possible to damaged the ecu doing this, ive never heard of sending a signal or resetting an ecu this way, just unplug the positive cable for like 10 mins and its reset.

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still interested on your progress .... what you get figured out so far ?? any updates ??? (a helpful mark or 2 or at least an update would be nice after all the research I did on this for ya)

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