jeep grand Cherokee Laredo battery/starting problem


Asked by Jul 31, 2013 at 05:18 PM about the 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4WD

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

My 1997 jeep grand Cherokee Laredo doesn't start all of the sudden I put the key in all
power seems to be on cd lights and what not work. I turn the key and it makes a
churning slow type of sound but cant get enough to start. It sits for about two days and
i go to my car and its completely dead car key clicker wont work,I have to open the car
with key, then i try to turn on and all power is dead.. . . . .  so next get a buddy to help
jump i get it charged off of another battery ( took a good 20min of charging of of his )
then the car finally started. I drive it for awhile then it happens again.. .

some problems that are wrong with the car are sometimes it will do nothing when i try
and start it in park then i put it in neutral and it starts fine but usually it starts in park
but every once in awhile it has to be started in neutral.

I am planing to try and test alternator and battery after i get a jump again but what else
could it be i have a feeling that they are fine but im not sure at all                                                                                                              

If you have ANY INFO on the problem im having id appreciate the help!!!

7 Answers

you know the connection from the battery to the frame/ground is paramount..this one not only needs the arc welding potential of it's own connection (source of problems) but supplies all of the components on the chassis ground...such as the ignition, fuel pump and the ECU...yes we don't want "brown power" that is to say varying amperage potential and variable voltages to try n' affect the ECU and it's conditional terms~...but since your startermotor is hungry for 300 cold cranking amps we will supply this need by cleaning of the lug of the 1/0 cable from the battery TO the frame~...clean the frame down to the metal and bolt the lug to the frame with a clean connection...and don't forget the battery cable that leads to the engine block too (near the alternator) this will supply your hungry 300 amp requirement~

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

...also the new tin/antimony batteries will not take a charge %10/year so five years is as much life as we can expect out of a battery anymore...any longer will play hell with your alternator~...cause DIM lights and undervoltage conditions affecting ALL accessories...change the battery...get a NEW one~

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

perhaps THIS renewed Ground potential with FRESH power will make it so that the problems if by magic~ see you DO have an ace up your sleeve~

use a coarse wirebrush...wear a facemask or bandana around your face for this~....and some safety goggles....acid dust hurts your eyeballs....put the wirebrush in someone's hands who will do this for you for the cost of a BEER~

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

I really do not know, but IF battery/alternator test fine/new don't resolve issue, I'm hearing coils go out on these a lot which can cause some starting issues. Doesn't sound like what you're talking about, I'm not really a car person, just a slight possibility I thought I'd toss out.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

coils are energized with reliable power...the battery has to be newer than five...all this advise is falling on DEAF ears...why do I bother? get insulted?....bwah~ this is all forthcoming advise....and you ain't buyin' it? I am sick of trying to help people...switching it off....all off...goodbye~

3 out of 3 people think this is helpful.

sounds like mabey the batt. cable is loose at the starter. It has its own cable, seperate from the one that powers the vehc.

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