Rear drum brakes

10

Asked by Jan 16, 2016 at 11:22 PM about the 1993 GMC Sierra 2500 2 Dr C2500 Extended Cab LB

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

I have a 1993 GMC Sierra it was modified by the
previous owner and is now a 3/4 ton 2500. My rear
brakes have locked up on me twice and I am sure
this brake job is long over due. I have my rear
driver side tire off and the truck is in neutral. I have
used an entire can of PB penetrating lubricant. I
have hammered around the drum and also tried
heat. I assume there is something simple and
important I am missing. So how do I get this drum
off?

8 Answers

68,895

There is a plastic cap on back of drum near bleeder location,pop cap out use a brake tool to adjust and loosen the brake shoes inside the hub so you can get it loose.

1 of 1 people found this helpful.
68,895

Diagram,

1 of 1 people found this helpful.
10

Is there anything else it could be? I'm not seeing anything like that. I bought a tool earlier today and the guy told me something similar. He said just remove the dust cap and adjust the pads. The only opening I see here is a pen sized hole and a slit on each side.

10

Thank you for the diagram I'm looking at it different now.

1 of 1 people found this helpful.
68,895

It is a slit about 1" long 1/4 or so wide,use the tool to rotate the star.

74,615

That helps, and you may have to punch out that tab to gain access. When hammering on the drum pound in-between the lug studs on the face of the drum while applying some pressure on the edge of the drum like using a screwdriver between the drum and backing plate. Just don't bend the backing plate, you do not need to pry that hard. It will pop loose. This is a recommended procedure from a Manufacture and it dose work.

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

K2500 axles and Drum brakes - You should have Floating Axles - you know you do if you have the 8-bolted centerpiece. Yes, the drum is a separate piece from the hub and spindle BUT probably they are now effectively one - so, take them off together. Mine required the 19mm socket, get the 6-sided impact one from the Blu box or red box. Remove the 8 bolts - air impact took it off easy, breaker bar with 19mm socket went nowhere. Plastic baggie them. Preparation - oil catch pan and a clean place for the, spindle clip key nut and for the axle. Pry the end plate from the spindle - its only gasket maker from a tube. Slide out the axle and end plate. Put it in that clean and nice place. The nut is round and recessed, but has 6 circular recesses. The vids on line show removal with a screw driver or pin (3/16ths?) - it is not cranked tight. I had a pin sizing bar - and pins so made my own removal tool (thanks Dad) or get the socket with the projections for engaging the inner castellations. See the circular clip - remove from the top at the keyway and work down, jimmy out the spline key, two tiny screw drivers worked for me or maybe mechanics tweezers (not your lady's eyebrow tweezers). Cleaning out the gunk with brake parts cleaner really helps - might even lodge it loose, don't lose it in the dirt you shade tree mechanics. Now nudge the nut loose - count turns and partial turns. Write it down. Parking brake off - Wheels chocked, jack stands in place and bearing the weight? And place for setting the drum so it can drip oil straight from the center onto collection rags rather than the drum braking surface. Reverse is easy as long as you remember to put the nut, key and clip in before the axle :-( , and have cleaned off all the old sealant. That means you need new sealant. And have started soaking the oil fill plug for refilling or topping off gear oil. Axle install - the key words were - axle must be level - when you try to engage it - so about 5 inches of axle are sticking out, and clunk, it goes no further. Leverage and lift the splined end (it's 3 feet away) and in a few minutes you it'll suddenly slip in - but not all the way, now gently rotate and zupp, in you are. NOW pull back without disengaging, clean the faces for the gasket maker, tuck a paper towel in the bottom of the spline so you don't contaminate the gasket maker, one more clean with brake cleaner and dab on the gasket maker. I used hi-temp but the black stuff is fine - , REMOVE THE PAPER OIL SOKER UPPER, then slide the axle all the way, put the bolts in and snug it up. Let cure 1 hour, then finish tightening. Did I forget the nut and have to remove axle with sealant on it? Yes. Did I forget the paper towel and have to remove the axle with sealant on it? Yes. SO.... OPM, learn from Other Peoples Mistakes, there is NO need to repeat them... Brace yourself and slide the drum off, the spindle will come with it including all the

K2500 axles and Drum brakes - You should have Floating Axles - you know you do if you have the 8-bolted centerpiece. Yes, the drum is a separate piece from the hub and spindle BUT probably they are now effectively one - so, take them off together. Mine required the 19mm socket, get the 6-sided impact one from the Blu box or red box. Remove the 8 bolts - air impact took it off easy, breaker bar with 19mm socket went nowhere. Plastic baggie them. Preparation - oil catch pan and a clean place for the, spindle clip key nut and for the axle. Pry the end plate from the spindle - its only gasket maker from a tube. Slide out the axle and end plate. Put it in that clean and nice place. The nut is round and recessed, but has 6 circular recesses. The vids on line show removal with a screw driver or pin (3/16ths?) - it is not cranked tight. I had a pin sizing bar - and pins so made my own removal tool (thanks Dad) or get the socket with the projections for engaging the inner castellations. See the circular clip - remove from the top at the keyway and work down, jimmy out the spline key, two tiny screw drivers worked for me or maybe mechanics tweezers (not your lady's eyebrow tweezers). Cleaning out the gunk with brake parts cleaner really helps - might even lodge it loose, don't lose it in the dirt you shade tree mechanics. Now nudge the nut loose - count turns and partial turns. Write it down. Parking brake off - Wheels chocked, jack stands in place and bearing the weight? And place for setting the drum so it can drip oil straight from the center onto collection rags rather than the drum braking surface. Brace yourself and slide the drum off, the spindle will come with it including all the Reverse is easy as long as you remember to put the nut, key and clip in before the axle :-( , and have cleaned off all the old sealant. That means you need new sealant. And have started soaking the oil fill plug for refilling or topping off gear oil. Axle install - the key words were - axle must be level - when you try to engage it - so about 5 inches of axle are sticking out, and clunk, it goes no further. Leverage and lift the splined end (it's 3 feet away) and in a few minutes you it'll suddenly slip in - but not all the way, now gently rotate and zupp, in you are. NOW pull back without disengaging, clean the faces for the gasket maker, tuck a paper towel in the bottom of the spline so you don't contaminate the gasket maker, one more clean with brake cleaner and dab on the gasket maker. I used hi-temp but the black stuff is fine - , REMOVE THE PAPER OIL SOKER UPPER, then slide the axle all the way, put the bolts in and snug it up. Let cure 1 hour, then finish tightening. Did I forget the nut and have to remove axle with sealant on it? Yes. Did I forget the paper towel and have to remove the axle with sealant on it? Yes. SO.... OPM, learn from Other Peoples Mistakes, there is NO need to repeat them... Sorry, previous post saved the Drum removal for the last line.

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