Have 1990 Ranger w/2.9L. factory rebuilt w 29000. Valves start tapping over 2400rpm interstate driving. Runs sweet under 2400rpm. Any suggestions?

5

Asked by Apr 22, 2012 at 09:27 AM about the 1990 Ford Ranger XLT Extended Cab SB

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

Truck was only used part time before I got it. Changed oil and filter (Nasty Gunk). Valves started tapping after few minutes of interstate running 65mph. Stoped let it cool off and runs fine under 60 2400rpm.

11 Answers

13,525

Change your oil with a thinner oil and add some SeaFoam additive. This will break down the sludge in your engine and get your lifters cleared out. When doing this procedure being that your engine is this bad I would keep an eye on the color of the oil and when it gets fairly dark change it. You may have to repeat this process a few times depending how bad your engine is gunked up.

5

Thanks aztec, I have changed valve cover gaskets and lower intake gasket and valve trains looks brand new no gunk. Oil pan is different story. Have not pulled it since suck a pain in the A!! Running typical 10w30 oil right now. Last oil change 600 miles and oil is clean.

13,525

That is odd that the top of the heads are clean and the oil pan is that dirty. Sounds like lots of very short engine cycles. The engine never got up to temp to burn the condensation out of oil and the water all settled into pan. Does that seem plausible? I was thinking the reason for running rough above 2400 rpm might be the lifters not pumped up and not opening valves all the way.

1 of 1 people found this helpful.
5

Yes, The guy I got it from stated he use to start and let it idle a couple times a month. I don't know how many months/years. I know rebuilt engine was put in in 07. Hell pump may be full of gunk. Thanks, any other ideals would be appreciated. Pops

13,525

If the oil pan is that full of gunk I would take the pan off and clean it out. Then you can check the oil pump screen. Use carb cleaner and spray the oil pump out and clean in and around the crank and as much as you can get at. Then run a lite weight oil and some SeaFoam cleaner in it and watch the oil and change it when it gets substantial color.

2 of 2 people found this helpful.
Best Answer Mark helpful
5

I figured I was going to have to clean the pan, screen and pump, but one almost has to pull engine to do so. Going to pull filter and see what I got. Pull and clean pressure sensor, then start the oil pan/pump project. Will let you know what I find. Thanks Again Aztec and keep it between the ditches. Pops

13,525

Yea I was looking it is a big job to pull pan, but worth it to save engine. Yes do let me know I like to see the outcomes of these posts. I will keep it on the road!!!!

5

Hey Aztec, Finally got the job done. I didn't have to pull Distributor but I did have to pull passenger side wheel well to get to motor mount. Pan was full of sluge and rubber shavings which was apparently clogging oil pump and tube. Cleaned and reinstalled now oil pressure is maxing out. Thank God for little favors. Test drove down interstate yesterday at 3000 RPM and engine Purrred! Thanks for the tips and info!!!! Keep it between the ditches. Popsrose

13,525

Rubber shavings????? How did that happen? That's a first.

Do u have to pull the motor to clean the oil pan cuz I have the same truck nd its do the same as the other guy truck

5

almost, you have to un do bottom side of motor mounts and raise the engine at least 2" plus. Remove pass front tire, inside fender well to get to Motor mount. "A royal Pain". A ratchet wrench is nice here. Remove starter. Remove fan and shroud. Jack truck up as far as possible so front i beams drop as low as they can get. You will have to realign Motor mounts 1 side at a time, big crow bar. Note: This did not gelp my problem. Unless you replace oil pump, you will not find oil Pump gasket. I cleaned OP in place. Good luck!

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