Battery or Electrical, won't start


Asked by May 19, 2016 at 07:38 PM about the 1990 Ford Probe GL

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

I replaced the battery in my probe which allowed it to run nicely for three
days and thought the battery had died after. Meter says 12.7-12.8 volts
and occasionally the car receives power to run the fan and dash lights but
will not start. Clicks upon start but no cranking.

The key ignition has a bit of play when in the acc/on position. Open door
beeping cuts when I press the brake and can hear a click when I do so;
feels like maybe power is being cut? Have been searching all over for
corrosion on lights and have pulled some of my fuses to troubleshoot. Have
no idea where my problem lies or how to even find it.

Have been advised to maybe unplug the brake switch next.

Have piss poor mechanical knowledge and am doing my best, any help will
be better than what I have. Having problems finding specific problems for
this car even when searching google.

5 Answers


with a wirebrush, you must remove the corrosion at the other end of the battery large cable connects to the engine block...and the other ground connection goes to the chassis/ sure that all connections are free of corrosion~...yes the power has been compromised...clean the main the battery and the places that they are connecting to, with a wirebrush~ ...and a few shots of brake cleaner...and you'll be off and running~

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
Best Answer

The connections were already clean but I went out to clean them again when I noticed I finally got a spark when I connected my battery again. The lights came on many times but always died when I went to start it. Finally I left it on and wiggled the cord which kicked the fan on again but once again no start, Fifth time did it and it started. Do you have any further insight? Was this corrosion based or do I have a fault in the positive connection which leads to my engine? Meanwhile I am going to run it for a bit and shut it off to see if it starts without problem again, maybe even wiggle the cord again to see if the cord cuts the power again.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

mmm..there should be NO electrical drain...unless the glovebox light is on...or other parastic drains~ am sure we are dealing with the BLACK cable here....the Red goes to the starter solenoid~...please~ pay attention to the colors...hopefully you alternator diodes survived the reverse connection....cross your attention to what goes where...disconnect the battery first...make sure the battery is newish~ god, you've got a second battery by now~ perhaps it is time to get another one now~ if all is connected right, would look for a parasitic drain~

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

I have ruled out the drain, and there was no crossing of wires or reverse connection or anything. Both cables leading to the positive and negative are black; negative grounds to the body and the positive goes deeper into the vehicle. The battery I bought is brand new. What I had to do to get my car to start is prop the wire from the edge of the battery up with a sponge and turning my car to neutral in order to start it. It has had a 4 of 5 start ratio since and if it doesn't start I wiggle the positive again until my fan fire up and try to start it again. My connection to the battery peg is tight and clean, its only when I adjust the cable portion that I get a change. When I said spark I mean I could hear my battery actually connect when the two connection are tightened as opposed to earlier when there was no sign of power. Does this sound like my cable might have a break in it? Or does this have to do with my neutral safety which is giving me problems, 1 out of 3 times I have to start it in neutral. Thanks for all your feedback.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

might you have a loose timing belt tensioner and bad valve timing...or simply jumped a tooth on account of a loose tensioner~ seen it before...would account for much of the behavior of this engine~

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