Oil Pressure Light Acting Oldly
When I'm driving for about 15 minutes, the Oil Pressure light comes on, usually starts beeping at me when I'm idling around 800 RPM. As I accelerate, it goes off, as it should. As I continue to drive, the RPM needed to keep the oil light off (and therefore the beeps) slowly climbs. However, when I stop, and turn off the car for about 45 seconds, I can restart the car and drive the car without the light coming on again until I turn the car back off. It is inconsistent when it does turn on. I have driven the car for weeks without it ever turning on and there have also been days where it beeps at me every 5 seconds (as the light turns on and off) while I'm idling at a traffic light.
The oil level in the engine block is a tad above the full line, so there's plenty of oil in the engine, but is was also doing this when the oil level was a little above the 'empty' line on the dipstick. It isn't a predictably repeatable occurrence as taking the same path at the same speeds and hitting the same bumps doesn't cause the light to come back on.
What do you think the problem is? Sludge in the oil causing the oil pump to partially clog, bad oil pressure switch, or a bad pump? I can't take it in, since Murphy's law is supreme... The mechanics don't see the oil pressure light when it is in the shop and when the light does turn on, I'm either at the other end of town from the shop I trust, its after hours, or I have to get back to work... So they can't test to see if the oil pressure is too low.
You didn't mention how many miles were on the vehicle, but from what you say I would just install a new oil pressure transducer. They are inexpensive and fairly easy to install. Ideally when you take the old one out run a pressure check to see if you have pressure within specs.
It's got 90k on it, but thank you. I will install that first.
ok what happens when you let it idle for 15min with the dummy light flashing? does the engine start knocking? if yes you have oil pressure problems, if no don`t get too worried about it. My 1966 plymouth when stuck in traffic idleing will show the dummy light and shortly after will start to knock, I do have oil pressure issues so insted of running 10w30 I use 20w50. In your case I wouldn`t use 20w50 because it could be the oil pump and new engines have tighter bearing clearances, and don`t like thick oils.
I'm generally driving to places when it is triggering, so I'm not letting it idle for 15. However, I have had it idle for a couple minutes at a time (waiting at lights) with it triggering and I haven't heard any knocking. I didn't think 20w50 could handle my temperature ranges (-30°F to +90°F).
When you get time I would physically check your oil pressure and put that new sending unit on. You don't want to be driving it that much if your low on oil pressure. If its coming on while driving I would bet that the actual oil pressure is good. I say this because if you have low pressure at higher RPMs you would have consistently low oil pressure at low RPMs. Also note that if the light flickers at all at steady RPM once again sending unit. If your in -30 degree temps I would go with synthetic especially if your doing a lot of cold starts. At 90,000 miles I would still go with manufactures recommendations on the oil including Syn oils.
I have a 2004 jeep liberty 3.7 lifer with about 130000 miles on it. The oil light comes on only when I stop, no other weird noises and it started the day before I got my oil changed. We did put is synthetic 5 30 since I cant always change it at the 3000 mile mark.
Why do people ask for number of miles on an old vehicle??? Who cares, it's going to be a lot every time. Same with asking how many cylinders on a car when getting wiper blades!! Irritating.
NO MORE OIL WARNING !!!!!!!!! I just had exact problem. Annoying warning sound when I stop at red light. 2000 grand voyager with 150k miles original engine and oil pump. I drive 80-90 MPH with this issue for a week with no issue. So I know nothing wrong with my pump or bearings. All I did was clean the wire, connector and the pressure switch using break cleaner. I didn't even remove any of them. Just sprayed to clean all oil and dirt as much as possible. NO MORE OIL WARNING.
I have a PT Cruiser at 89,000 miles, the attached pic is the light that comes up periodically. I don't need any oil, oil level is fine. What could this light be? would appreciate
The light in the picture is temperature warning. Not oil pressure warning light discussed here. Temperature warning means your engine is running too hot. First let your engine cool down aND check coolant level. 1. Check level of your engine coolant in reservoir. It is a plastic tank with 2 level markers. It should be above lower marker when engine is cold. 2. Open radiator cap. Engine better be at embiant temperature. Coolant should be full. Check radiator cap for tear and ware on rubber seal. Top up coolant if necessary. 3. Check the front of radiator for trash/debris/dirt and clean if necessary. If the temperature light keep coming on try this: When the temperature light comes on, turn on heater in side you car full with windows down. If this makes your temperature light to go off, your radiator is not cooling sufficiently. Repeat this a few times to confirm it goes off consistently when you turn on heater. If this is the case you would try changing and flushing the coolant first. If that still not working replace radiator and thermostat both.
I have a PT cruiser as well with 94k on it and I do have the red oil can light on. It came on last night and it chimes continuously as I drive but just stays illuminated when I stop and doesn't make any chiming sounds. I don't hear any knocking and its driving as normal what could that be?
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