Replacing motor mounts on a 2002 Taurus wagon Duratec (DOHC)


Asked by Nov 14, 2011 at 12:27 PM about the 2002 Ford Taurus SE Wagon

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

Instructions for replacing mount - is this correct?
Should I really raise the engine using a block of wood under the oil pan?

Is it as simple as depicted here?

Instructions follow:

The motor mounts on a Ford Taurus will be located on the bottom left and right sides of the engine. The motor mounts will be secured to the top of a metal plate on each side of the frame. You will be able to see them from under the Taurus. After you have replaced the motor mounts, you will need to tighten the motor-mount securing bolts to the torque specifications for that Taurus model.

Once your Ford Taurus is on a lift, examine the upper and lower motor mounts for wear. A visual inspection, however, may not fully reveal deterioration as metal surfaces may conceal the hard rubber or polyurethane underneath that could have worn out. In all likelihood the lower motor mounts will need replacement before the upper mounts, especially if they are soaked with oil. Consider replacing all lower motor mounts at the same time.


Things You'll Need
2 jack stands
Ratchet set
Wooden block
New motor mounts
Torque wrench
1.Raise the front end of the Ford Taurus off the ground and place the two jack stands under the frame. Lower the car onto the jack stands. Slide under the engine and place the wooden block between the engine's oil pan and the jack.

2.Raise the engine up slightly and loosen the metal securing bolts in the center of the motor mounts using the ratchet set. Remove one of the securing bolts completely and pull the motor mount from the fitting. Slide the new motor mount into the fitting and replace the bolt.

3.Repeat these steps for the opposite motor mount. Once both of the motor mounts have been replaced lower the engine. Torque the securing bolts to the specifications for that specific Ford Taurus. According to "Popular Mechanics," "Be sure to mark each old mount to indicate its direction before extracting it, then match that to the new one because there is a good chance that it can be installed 90° or 180° from its proper position, or the right one on the left side and vice versa." You will need to have a standard measure socket set and magnetic tray at the ready for removing the old mounts with new mounts available to swap. Consult your repair manual for the best way to handle this part of the job.

4.Remove the jack stands with help from the jack and lower the front end of the Ford Taurus to the ground.

Once the engine mounts have been replaced, start your engine to ensure that everything is operating smoothly. This will mean that the noises you heard emanating from underneath the hood signifying a problem in the first place are now gone, the problem fixed.

Comments please.

11 Answers

this is correct,just use a 2 by 4 about a foot long.

4 people found this helpful.

Jacked up the frame on the right front and saw both mounts. Think the problem is with the rear one. On the front one saw the nut holding the mount to the frame. Cannot see the 2 bolts holding the mount to the engine. How would I get to those 2 bolts? For the rear mount with a bolt going thru it, How do you remove the bolt and nut and then put it back together? This mount has a large threaded part that attaches to a flange on the engine. Once again don't see where the nut holding the mount to the frame is. How do I remove it and replace it?

4 people found this helpful.

the bolts you looking at on right side is tranny bolts.motor mount is on other side,you can see it on top,2 bolts remove,jack it up by oil pan,remove the 2 bolts,then remove the ones on engine block.

1 people found this helpful.

How do you access the top 2 bolts on the front mount? Do you have to remove the bumper cover or what? Don't see how you can get in there. Front mount is shot. have a new mount but don't see how to get to the top front bolts.

2 people found this helpful.

the mount you need to change is on passenger side,at finderwell look for 2 15mm bolts screwing straight down into a alluimunum plate,remove,the other 2 15mmbolts are mounted to block with the arm the other 2 were bolted to.this is why you have to jack up the motor,the ones you see in back are tranny mounts,no need to fool with them,just the one on top.

1 people found this helpful.

See the bolts and almost got the mount off. Will have to drain coolant and move the bottom radiator hose to get a socket wrench in there to remove the bolts. Now for the rear mount. See that the rear right mount has a long bolt going thru it. The nut is visible after removing the RF wheel. How do you get a tool behind the bolt to keep it from turning when removing or replacing the nut? After removing the nut on the bottom to the subframe and the nut on the bolt going thru the center of the mount how do you actually remove and replace the mount? BIGHANK

2 people found this helpful.

the bolt for the rear mount is wielded on,dont have to put a wrench on it,after bolts are removed you just pull it out and replace,do 1 mount at a time,dont want the motor to shift on you,no big deal if it does,just makes it harder to line up the bolt holes.

1 people found this helpful.

Replaced front mount after removing lower radiator hose and a support bracket near the hose that prevented taking the front hose clamp off. Two top 15mm bolts were then accessible using a wobble extension and a 1/2" socket wrench. Now for the rear one. Do you just remove the lower nut holding the mount to the frame and then the nut on the bolt going horizontally thru the metal part molded to the rubber, jack up the oil pan and wiggle the mount off of the horizontal bolt?

4 people found this helpful.

yes that should do it.

2 people found this helpful.

Rear mount is a real dog - took 2 of us over 3 hours Removed wheel and put a 15mm deep socket on the nut on what I thought was a bolt going horizontally thru the center of the mount. Removed the screw holding the brake line for clearance for the socket, Saw a nut fall off underneath the car. The nut on the end of what appeared to be a bolt didn't come off but the whole shaft turned. Eventually it stopped coming out any more. It was now unscrewed about 1 inch. Put some vise grips on it and finally pulled it out. It isn't a bolt but a threaded shaft with a nut on the end that is accessible from the wheel well. It goes thru the u shaped flange which surrounds the motor mount and is threaded into the side closest to the engine. The mysterious nut was originally threaded on the other side. Removed the 21mm nut on the bottom of the mount which is up above the exhaust pipes going to the catalytic converter. Raised the engine with a block of wood and a 3 ton jack under the oil pan. Got it up about 2 or more inches to remove the old mount. Was shot. Rubber around the metal sleeve where the threaded shaft goes thru was shot. Put new mount in the same way the old mount was mounted. There is a cut down area on the metal sleeve that faces the engine. Make sure the mount goes in exactly the same way the old one was mounted or it will never line up with the threaded shaft. Now the FUN BEGINS. Put the 21mm nut on the bottom bolt and loosely attached the mount so it could wiggle into place when trying to put the threaded shaft back thru the flange on the motor and the sleeve on the new mount. This is a REAL PITA. Having someone release the jack to let the motor flange down was almost disasterous. The jack went down very fast past the point where the sleeve would line up with the flange attached to the motor. When we jacked the motor up again it caught on the mount and lifted the car off of the jackstands under the subframe. Lowered it and tried again several times with same thing happening. I felt that the ground down part of the sleeve and the raised area not ground down on the back side of the mount was catching on the flange. I put a large screwdriver in at the bottom rear of the mount and push as hard as I could to make it go forward while another person jacked up the motor again. VOLIA Now the motor flange didn't get stuck and the hole for the threaded rod was visible. Had to play with the jack going up and down ever so slightly to get the threaded rod thru the flange and the metal sleeve in the new mount. Used a breaker bar and a hammer on the end of it to get the flange into the mount with the 15mm deep socket on the nut which I loosened previously. Still not done. Took another 10-15 minutes to get the end of the threaded rod to thread into the threads at the rear side of the motor flange. Used wobble socket extension both to remove and now to rethread the rod into the rear tapped end of the motor flange. Tightened this nut/flange combo as tight as I could get it. It is still missing the nut that fell off on disassembly. Tightened the 21mm nut on the bottom bolt welded to the motor mount and going thru the subframe. To replace the nut on the rear of the threaded rod will have to remove the catilyc converter bolts and move it to get access to the end of the threaded rod. You can see it sticking out about an inch from the engine flange just can't access it. For everyone who said the "BOLT" is welded on to the engine forget it. No bolt at all just a threaded rod with nuts on both ends. Engine moves slightly now going from drive to reverse and back to drive but nothing like it was before. WHAT A JOB.

6 people found this helpful.

support the car behind the subframe you might have to lower it a little to get the rear mount out/in. i've tons of these.

2 people found this helpful.

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