Power Drain on a 2002 Ford Taurus SES
I have a power drain on a 2002 Ford Taurus SES, Vulcan 3.0. Battery was replaced. Alternator is charging ok. Tried to pull fuses with multi-meter to measure current draw and found total draw of 1.2 Amps. 1.1 Amp draw is through fuse 16 (Flasher, GEM, ICP, RCC Memory, Cluster). This is after MORE than an hour, but I wonder if I am reawakening GEM every time I close open circuit between negative battery terminal and negative clamp with my meter. Also, is there a hood switch that keeps GEM awake? I do not have a hood light. Bottom line, I think this 1.2 draw continues regardless of hood position or time after shut down but would like to know for sure and would appreciate suggestions before I jury rig some wiring outside hood. Note: I also have a 0.4 Amp draw through fuse 26 (mirror, pulse stretcher module, deck lid lamp (If this is a hood lamp I do not have one) Battery Saver); ALSO 0.18 Amp draw on fuse 10 (Circuit breaker: power seats, delayed accessory). Is there a chance that my Battery Saver Relay is keeping my GEM awake? Now that would be ironic. Thanks for any suggestions you may have.
id try the gem replacement, something is breaking down .seems probable .this is where a clamp on over meter is nice for testing
This problem has continued for about a month. Battery drains in about a day. I am now working with a 3 week old new replacement battery. Obvious problems, such as lights or switches left on, were eliminated first. There is a consistent 1.19 Amp drain on the battery when everything should be off (My understanding is that a continuous current of about 0.05 Amp is normal.). Once jumped, all is fine while driving because alternator is charging properly. GEM replacement is not cheap or easy so I thought there might be other obvious issues. After market alarm (installed at dealer) has already been removed. Radio may go next because I believe it is a common source of power drains. Since I narrowed this down to fuses 16, 26 and 10 (as detailed above) I thought others might be able to identify the problem. Thanks for ideas.
That being said, if it is the GEM, will my mechanic’s professional code reader be able to identify the problem with certainty before I replace the part?
No problems that I can identify.
To be clear - no apparent problems with ignition switch.
I see gems online for about 100$ , think its under dash .near column ,maybe a parts store will let you plug one in for a test.if they are their to see the results.have it hanging and ready,plug ,check and buy if response .they may even know something .working in that area a savvy clerk will know some things that will amaze ya.
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