which sensor is for the speedometer ?
there is 2 sensors an input and an output, one is by where the axle goes in
and the other is on side of the tranny in middle of the big round disc.. i just
installed a tranny and i have no speedometer. i tried to swop with old tranny
but same problem if anyone can help point me in the right direction id be
grateful i have the car sold when i figure it out.
Do you suppose the engineer needs the rotational speed of the output shaft?......................or do you suppose the turbine speed is the sensor that tells VSS signal? I mean, since you do transmissions. That is how they had to teach me, by asking me what I was asking them. If I could not answer, they asked me what was the code and then , what was the pinpoint test.
When there were groups of sensors, I had to determine wire color, before deducing which was which by part names and locations. also connector shape, but really what part turns directly proportionate to vehicle speed?
I don't have access to pin tests, I'm just getting started again after a new years eve fire that burned everything. I have not been able to afford all data yet. So I'm not sure which one is which.
Then how do you inspect a VSS? and what signal can you read on a good working one? There are many ways the input can be affected during a trans replace, and there may be another one still installed in the previous part you removed. That can be the best help, sometimes, get you thinking since you were there.
Would a turbine speed sensor read a part that goes with vehicle speed? or engine speed?
I traded both of the ones I thought were it I found a loose group made repairs and same thing . I was hoping someone would have a scam attic to help me I'm looking as we speak on line. Your a tough cookie but it will help me learn I guess. Thanks for making answer a challange
Does your speedometer tell you the engine speed? or the wheel speed? and which could be named VSS?
Is say engine speed but I may not understand
Y'kno if you like pics and discussion to clear your understanding, I find that googling the make, model, year, and part name can get me pics to look at, and sites to goto, that present the info to me. Then I begin to understand more, in case I need to figure out what I did to it, or what happened to it. They are not cheap, and neither is gas, but a Dvom pays for itself quickly. and testing info is free with google, autozone, and the library. that empowers me. Try it
My exwife says that makes me a butthead, do you think she's right?
That's how I found this forum looking for test procedure or any infirmation I can I'm having trouble so I thought I'd ask. Sorry if this isn't what this site is for
VSS means vehicle speed, right , RPM means engine speed, right? The turbine is bolted to and rotates off the turning of the engine right? The vehicle runs on the road, the axles are splined to the hubs right? Just sayin, if you replaced a transmission in a fwd escape, you encountered not only these, but nearly every part in the powertrain....Kinda thinkin you're yankin my sheleleigh.
ok i admit i had a brain fart, im the confussion came from wrong information i found on line, now looking for test procedure for sensor, i swapped the old one and same problem which leads me to believe i have a wiring issue, i dont know if the issue existed before i started because i purchased vehicle with bad tranny and never drove it. but i have the problem now so i need to find it. i thought the ground was going to be it but false hope.
oh damn i just read that over , your x wife lol
The teacher, she was, and if I was always a problem made me stay after and keep trying, hahaha. The VSS has a mV signal, the DVOM is attached and adjusted to millivolts, then the axle for that side is spun by hand. The sensor generates a MV signal because it contains a perm mag, and is surrounded bu a winding of fine wraps. The trans output shaft has a toothed ring, as those "teeth" interrupt the mag. field sequentially the induction produces the signal, the reading is compared to the service manual. If the signal contained "electronic noise" it is found by reading live datastrream with an LCD oscillo. readout, usually on the NGS. or equivalent. The sensor receives reference and has signal return. You can get better descriptions with pics on the internet depicting the wires, their sources, their pinout location, etc. A sensor must not show physical damage, nor "build-up" on it, and the "tothed ring" or "excitor ring" must not have any sign of damage, and be driven by the fact it is located on the output shaft with a locator. That's all I can remember, hope I did not brain fluff. But this is the reason why a quick trip to the public library coud be in order with some loose change for making photocopies. Their pro online database is paid with taxpayer funds and contributions. If you are a US citizen or not, they may let you look yours up, and print,........... The online sites like (enginecodes.com) have ideas about brainstorming your causes, possible causes, etc. and then lead to pinpoints based specifically for make, model, and year.
You can get a code reader at a part store, put it on a card and use it, then take it off the card, in my experience. The code makes it easier to get to the pinpoint test and helps keep erroneous info offa your cause and effect for do's and donts. Following every step is crucial, when working with automotive electronics. you must read the manual and commit the steps to memory, or go back and run a guided diagnostic. my typing out the whole manual section for you would be exponentially more expensive than your half hour investment. Like the teacher used to always say, when I did not know.......I'm not looking it up FOR you. And noe YOU owe ME a report on it. She was a dumho
I was nice to my teachers when they, later came to see me at the dealership, and I found myself doing everything in my power to get them their answers or corrections....Even was paid for some of the time I spent (especially when there was a corrective bulletin to look up, and a part to update, or a procedure ti implement) Do not forget these factors in a correct diagnosis. They are time savers. and you get to keep your hair
That wS the best diagnostic answer I could have ever asked for.thank you for more then just the answer. I don't care what your X thinks your a good dude, and I will let you know results. At first I was thinking wow what a dick, now my opinion has changed 180°. I can't say thank you enough for the brain exercise.
Your dealer can look your vehicle up and run a check by just knowing your VIN number. they can give you clues, or libraries also have databases for bulletins and recalls. The broadcast messages and SSM's are dealer service data only
That's just what she used to say, now every girlfriend I have exclaims similar statements, or some of the exclamations are still being translated. There's no oasis for that. ....yet.
Thanks again for everything you kind of slapped the cockyNess out of me. I kind if strayed away from proper diagnoses after being able from experiance to know what's causing a problem. But your right takes guess work out of the equation. There are no code runs great but no speedometer or illsay itsays20 25 at 50 and it dont want to shift into OD and it is blinking, 3rd to OD is way messed up
Reading 1/2 the speed suggests calibration issue. now what is the cal of the donor vehicle, and what is the cal of your vehicle, it is found on the jamb drivers side or on the processor or end of valve cover. The processor or "part that does the calculations, be it a buffer, a chip, or built-in, you goto ford parts with your info over the phone to see if you have a difference, they will ask for trans tag data above the pan in the front .I think. then the vin and the calcode (calibracion) for those of you who don't habla) if they find that you need to change an item, it would be nice to find you already have it there, if not, the donor vehicle, and if not, they may have some other course. If it was a GM, I could say EPROM, or signal buffer, but Ford has a better idea, always.
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