my crown victoria keeps stumbling when accelerating with the gas
peddle down about an inch. On heavy acceleration - it's not a problem.
Only when casually pulling out.
The check engine light was on - and the local repair shop put in a
"DPFE Sensor for EGR Valve"
and a new EGR Valve. Then engine check light is now off - however
after $355 in repairs - it's still not fixed?
What to do next?
cliff in Maine
check your spark plugs your mechanic ripped you off check your magneto or sparplugs mostlikely case
something mite be wrong with timing i herd something like that in a camry
Right after your engine air filter is your MAF (mass air flow) sensor. There may or may not be a screen in front of it, but there will be a wire running across the middle of the opening. Spray that down with either Brake Clean, or Carb/Choke Clean and see if that helps. If there is any dirt, oil, water on the MAF it will cause your issue and not set a code. What you had going on with the EGR system was probably not related to this issue, but would affect your emissions.
I owned an crown vic interceptor which had the exact problem. It would "stumble" sometimes at idle or like you said, pulling out. Normally I would gas it to overcome the stumbling up to 10mph or so. I did what the others said, changed the spark plugs, plug wires, cleaned the MAF, changed the EGR, everything. I still had the problem. After further inspection of the throttle body, it seemed the catch where the diaphragm would stop the valve travel was gapped too much. I placed a small rubber cap on the stop, adding approx 1/32, then the problem stopped. Without applying gas pedal pressure the throttle body "should" maintain proper idle. For some reason our cars were notorious for stumbling. I know it sounds like jerry rigging but its effective. But I always suspected one other thing, the coil packs. You have two of them, and I have heard sometimes they lose idle charge capacity which would produce improper spark, thus also creating the stumbling. It is an easy install at 40.00 a piece and also replace the small side capaciters attached to them. Hope this helps and respond to me if you need further help.
I am about to purchase an 03 PI from a family member. It Runs great untill u put u put ur foot into it. soft acceleration its ok. hard acceleration is bogs down. fuel filter changed.. MAF? TIA!
I had the exact same problem. Your answer is here.. You need a new idle air control valve. They get gummed up around 100k or more. Replaced mine and never had a problem since. If your vic starts and stalls and sputters its definitely the idle air control valve on the throttle body. Good luck!
Most definitely the idle air control valve!
They may have broke the flare some at the exhaust manifold egr tube connecter with the vavle change. Also does you mib blink during rapid acceleration from say 35 to 70 if so it could be time to replace the intake manifold.
If the MIL blinks, it is an indication of a misfire, not an intake manifold. The Intakes on these break and leak coolant - they do not cause misfires - broken Spark Plugs, internally shorted Coil Packs and old Spark Plug Boots do that. A broken flare on an EGR tube will only leak exhaust and will be quite audible with the hood up. Bogs down on acceleration? Retrieve the codes, Watch the PIDS and actually see what is performing outside of the normal parameters - or throw a ton of money at it until you get lucky. (Shotgun Repair Method)
Mine is a 2004 P71 and if I let it idle with the A/C on for my dogs, then go to drive off, it will stumble and not accelerate. Throttle positioning seems to be the variable. If I shut the car off and restart it, the problem goes away for a while. But it will eventually come back. There are a few ideas ive had, TPS, hot fuel recircing back into the tank [im in orlando FL] or the MAF. I checked the MAF and it was spotless, filter was good while i was in there... Need to check the TPS as my next step...
I have an 2005 crown vic p71 what will ny car do if it needs an intake
Idle air control valve, easy to install, retails for about $50. Had a local shop quote $600 to do the job. Ran as fast as I could and did it myself. No special tools required. This is the fix provided you are only experiencing the problem at or near idle. If the problem occurs at normal running speeds then coil packs or even fuel system...
I replaced my TBS, IAC , vapor canister and canister soleniod... Vehicle still stallls randomley, mostly when slowing down and turning into a parking space or side street..... Next try for the weekend is throttle bottle cleaning and or fuel filter replacement... Also im getting a gas smell and a CEL Code for a bad black box canister even after i replaced it.. Any ideas? (2001 Grand Marquis 4.6L)
I have an 2001 grand marquis when I drive it for about 10 to 15 minutes my temperature gauge light will come on and my check engine light will get brighter and kinda stalls. I changed my mass air flow sensor and my o2 sensor. Sometimes my car will just die please someone help meee!!!!!
My fix for a 2000 Crown Victoria had a stumbling feeling when I was lightly accelerating. The fix was simple! I took starter fluid that would clean and dry itself. I opened the top of the air cleaner box and sprayed the sensor until it seemed clean. The cars computer sensed the air mixture was incorrect at the most sensitive acceleration and fuel mix and has been perfect ever since. It lights up the tires from a stop. No stumble any more.
I have a question I have a 2001 Ford crown Vic p71 with 102000 miles it has new intake tps sensor idle air control valve gas tank fuel filter air filter all coils tranny fluid change oils change and only on super light throttle going about 40 it misses and I can't figure out what it is Also has new o2 sensors
Hello, I own a 1989 Crown Victoria and had a stumbling problem as well. It sounds a lot like your problem; shaking and stumbling on light acceleration, but it's perfectly fine at high speeds. after working on the car for days, narrowing down what the problem might be, I eventually got down to a bad spark plug. Of course, the one that was bad was the hardest one to reach, all the way in the back on the passenger side. Once I replaced it, it ran perfectly. and If it's of any relevence, here's all the other parts of significance I replaced or done to the car: cap & rotor, spark plug wires, oil filter, an exhaust gasket, treated the fuel, replaced power steering fluid. After all that was done, it ran like new, but only behaved properly after the gunked up spark plug was replaced. Hope this helps some!
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