My sons 93 escort wagon runs rough and has no power. we have replaced almost everything
We have another the same year and changed almost everything even the computer. This thing runs best with the mass airflow censer unplugged.and it has almost no power.we have replaced timing belt, water pump, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, plugs, wires, crank censer, O2 sender, coil, maf, idol control solenoid,vacuum lines, I have rebuilt and retirement many engines but this has me puzzled as soon as we changed the O2 sender it ran great for a couple miles and than right back to running very poor. With the MAF unplugged now it runs better than with it hooked up properly. Please help . Any ideas
Sounds like you tried just about everything. Check exhaust for pluggage. When doing the o2 sensor may have cleared the pluggage a little for it to run better for a few miles. Good luck
I have thought about that but the only real problems I have ever come across with stopped up converters is just real sluggish. That is the only think left to try. so I am going to take the bolts off at the manifold to pipe and see what it does. Thanks for your input I appreciate your advice
Get your hands on a scanner with OBD-1 capability so you can pull some data while the thing is running. If it runs better with the MAF disconnected, then it's getting some bad data from somewhere and giving you bad results in turn. You have to think, the function of the mass air meter is to measure the incoming air, factor how much of it there is, and adjust the air/fuel ratio accordingly. Now when you disconnect the MAF, the computer relies on a preset table which is of course much closer to correct than what it wants to run on its own. Are you sure the MAF filament itself is good and maybe you didn't get a bad MAF? With it connected and idling, tap the MAF housing with the dull end of a screwdriver---if the car stumbles, the MAF is bad. Now is it blowing black smoke? Running RICH or lean? That's important. Have you changed the ECT--Engine Coolant Temp sensor. A bad ECT will give the computer a false coolant temperature, which can skewer the air fuel ratio WILDLY, and I'm thinking that disconnecting the MAF *might* also take the ECT reading out of the loop as well. Give that a shot, shouldn't cost much for the part either. A lot of cars have one coolant temp sensor for the gauge and another for the computer...make sure you swap the one for the computer!
I used my buddys Snap on scanner and it showed o2 censer after replacing it again it still runs the same but is not storing codes. The last maf i put on it came from his other identical car that he just drove. We swapped them and his car still ran good but the turd in question ran the same, Lousy.I am 55 and have done most everything with a car either gas or diesel and this stumps me. I even put a 4BT Cummins in a 99 jeep Cherokee and I cant figure this dumb thing out.I am going to try the temp switch that is making sense to me.
Well I changed the temp sender you suggested and it appears it is fixed! running good and lots of power it has stumbled slightly only once and the more we drive it the better it feels. Thanks a million
Excellent... If you feel so inclined, you could select my post above as "Best answer".... Solely your discretion of course. Give it a day or two to make sure the fix stuck that is... (Just trying to get better reputation here since I don't have the free time like some of the more outstanding members of this group do) ECT, in my personal experience, seems to be one of the most overlooked sensors that can have a gross effect on air/fuel ratio. People are very quick to blame the O2's, MAF, and IAT it seems. A Scan Tool that can datastream is worth its weight in gold, as well as it is to know how to interpret the information coming out of it since the output isn't always in standard recognized terminology. :)
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