2000 silverado 3/4 ton truck won't start
my plow truck almost turns over but won't I treated the fuel and added new but it still wont turn over
Has power but wont crank ? Cranks but wont start ? Starts and dies ? Battery connections cleaned? power to the starter pigtail ? verify spark to the plugs ? verify fuel pressure and volume ? clean and dry the spark plugs and make sure they spark ? In that order. please, report ?
It wants to start but will not reach idle. The fuel pump turns on and pumps up the fuel sys. It acts like it is not getting enough fuel, I added new fuel to the tank. I used some additives and changed the fuel filter. I haven't used the truck in year.
Like maybe...injector signal... uh, do you have a 12v test light ? and can you verify injector pulse ? Having spark and fuel and wanting to start, but tries then dies ? could be best described. There are special test lights for injector pulse but see what a 12v test light does, back probe at each injector connector to verify. The ground may pass thru a relay. Unsure exactly. see if the light pulses like an on off signal. This is why you want to get a code reader or a book and a paperclip and watch the light flash to send you the code. Then the code definition chart leads to the test, describes it etc. A cam sensor or a part in a distributor can be the location signal in the engine for the computer to time the left or right bank since it is not likely sequential fuel injection. Some use a crank sensor with a separate cam sensor. You can look up parts on rock auto for yours and try to deduce what they did on your particular year. I was at Ford by then. What GM's can sometimes do though, is build up resistance and fire back into themselves and blow a pinhole through the module or the pickup coil is crumbling too inside the cap ? then they make spark, but it goes out the hole and arcs to ground. this is why I have been asking to run these checks. You tube videos can sometimes help you identify your parts in your system, and depict what is happening. You must have test results to condemn a part. Do you have a haynes manual for it ? They tell about many prelims you can do to get familiar with your throttle body and its controls. Fuel pressure and volume test results would be nice.
and what did changing the filter smell like ? fresh gas ? or like someone peed in an old lady's attic. You could rig up a pump out, and start fresh if you cannot run those tests. Just an idea, be careful, no smoking, no plug in drop lights, blah blah etc. safe containers, fresh new gas. but, go back and read everything so far and get some of those test results please and or borrow the stuff with a credit card from the parts store or use the public library if you have to for the manual.
Being a 2000 year, you may need to get a code reader, then google the code. run the pinpoint tests and see what it's indicating at that point. sitting makes these problems simply a list of checks to do and figure out what it is not. I hazard to mention the possibilities because people take off GM parts that last 15 years and put aftermarket ones on that can last for 3. Then they can loose the handle and end up missing a good truck. Stay brave for me.
Inspect wiring looms and connections you encounter to eliminate rodent infestation. If you smell pee, protect your hands and dont touch your face. Tell me about the parts used in your system, does it have a distrib? Or are we talkin about cam and crank sensors. or coils on plugs or distributorless coil pack < that kind right there can have a module sandwiched under coil packs. They like to squirt. The spark just jumps out the hole. When the load increases and the resistance rises, they find it easier to arc.
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