Front brakes are hanging up. I put new pads, new rotors, new calipers and brake hoses and bled the brakes and they are still hanging up and getting extremely hot
I need to know if the computer has to be reset for the brakes. How do I get the brakes to release? It is a 2005 Silverado Z71 5.3 liter V8 with rear drums.
when this happens have went down to the bleeders on the caliper and cracked them to see of they release? if you haven't do that first. if they release go up the the master cylinder and unbolt it from the brake booster (leaving the line attached), and look to see if the master cylinder has returned to the released position(piston resting against the retainer snap ring). if it hasn't then replace the master cylinder. (there are two different types of master cylinders they have used- latch type and pin type, that refers to how the reservoir is attached to the master cylinder its self.They will ask you that when you go to buy a new Master cylinder> If it has returned make the pedal isn't binding or the booster hasn't got a problem and isn't returning to the released position. that should get you headed in the right direction :)
Sounds like it's your master cylinder or booster.
did anyone ever figure the brakes locking up on this truck cause my daughters 2005 is doing the same thing and already put $300 in it just on parts
I HAD THE SAME EXPERIENCE. DID COMPLETE BRAKE JOB ETC. APARANTLY THE BRAKE FLUID BECAME CONTAMINATED. HERE'S MY THEORY; I NEVER HAVE ANY BODY WORK ON MY VEHICLES. BUT ONE TIME I HAD EXCEEDED OIL CHANGE MILEAGE ( WHEN I WAS ON THE ROAD( ABOUT 300 MILES FROM HOME) SO I PULLED IN TO WAL-MART ( STUPID ME ) FOR AN IOL CHANGE. OF COURSE THEY COURTEOUSLS TOPPED OFF ALL FLUIDS- DUH. ABOUT 2 WEEKS LATER I NOTICED THAT AT REST THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT MOVE ( LIKE BEGIN TO MOVE ON A HILL) .IT GRADUALLY GOT WORSE, BRAKES WOULD HEAT UP ETC. AFTER FORCING TO DRIVE THEY LOOSENED UP ENOUGH TO GET WHERE I WSE GOING, BUT STILL WERE NOT COMPLETELE RELEASED. MY THEORY APARANTLY WAS CORRECT. I CAN'T SAY FOR SURE THAT THE WAL-MART GUY WAS THE CULPRIT. SOLUTION; FIRST RAN SEVERAL BOLLLES OF BRAKE FLUID THROUGH SYSTEM( EQUALLY ON ALL 4 WHEELS). THEN REMOVED ALL WHEEL CYLINDERS; CLEANED, HONED, PUT NEW RUBBERS IN THEM. I', NOT A VERY SMART PERSON BUT MY LONG SHOT THEORY WAS ALL THAT WAS LEFT. PROBLEM SOLVED. I KNOW A JOB LIKE THAT ISN'T A MECHANIC'S FAVORITE THIN TO DO. BUT CAN YOU IMAGINE THE COST OF HAVING A DEALER DO IT. IM THANKFULL I'M STILL YOUNG ENOUGH ( 72 ) TO DO MY OWN WORK AND DO REASONABLY TO TROUBLE SHOOT MY PROBLEMS. firstname.lastname@example.org
DON'T FORGET TO REPLACE THE MASTER CYLINDER ( DON'T RTEBUILD REBUILD IT OR GET A REBUILT ONE-- THEY NEVER WORK) email@example.com
2005 GMC Z71, going through this issue now!!! All my mechanic type buddies or students told me one of two things. Contaminated fluid or master cylinder. Had really bad contaminated fluid, $300, brake flush. Tried that, problem still exists, the mechanic is telling me the master cylinder needs to be replaced. another $500, but won't charge me the diagnosis fee, only the part and labor. Pissed off beyond belief!!!
So have any of you pulled the master cylinder and find the booster is hull of fluid because I'll bet that is the problem. At this point the fluid has ruined the booster so now you have to replace both. I've done about 6 of these so far
I had this problem on my 2000 silverado 1500 4wd. Turned out rust had built up where the wheel speed sensor mounts in the side of the hub. There are great youtube videos that guide you step by step in fixing it. If you get a new sensor be careful. They come with shims factory but an aftermarket one from Advance auto didnt so I put my old ones on and brakes were still sticking. Took them off and the wheel bearing would hit the sensor. So I ended up using 1 shim instead of both and it works great
Rear brakes hanging up on 01 Tahoe. Replaced calipers and hoses. Much better but not totally free. If I start it up and pump the brakes, shut it off. Brakes are dragging. If I pump it a couple times with engine off they free up. Could this be master cylinder?
2006 Silverado 4x4 with same front lockup. Started after I replaced the front with ceramic pads. Today I bleed the system to clear fluids and when I opened the front bleeders the brakes released. Finisher bleeding and tested with truck off, pressed pedal several time and a little drag but could turn the front spinal. After I cranked the truck and pressed the brake a few times it locked up. To me this is a booster issue. Odd enough it's only the front so one would think master cylinder. I will be cracking the master loose from the booster to check that. These pads are toast.
Did you have to remove the wheen speed sensor on the back of your hub?
Wheel not wheen. sorry
If so take it off and play around with the shims. Sounds like your anti lock is kicking in. You can check with a multimeter to ensure you have the right amount of space between the sensor and wheel bearing but I just put one spacer on the sensor, bolt it back to the hib and spin my hub and liaten and feel for scraping. If u dont then put your caliper back on and test your brakes. Rust and corosion messes with the spacing for some reason
Update to my repair today. Made sure brakes were locked up then pulled the master cylinder from the booster. What I found was not good, lower 1/3 of booster is full of brake fluid. I tow a lot and have had to top off the brake fluid at times but didn't think about it. I FOUND IT!. Question now is booster still good? I can syphon out the fluid or almost all of it.
Found my answer, I have to replace the booster and the master. Now I need to find out the brake code so I know which one I need. I have decoded the VIN, looked at all the stickers on the truck. Is it a JF3, JC3 or the 7 series. Where is it noted? Thanks
Found the brake and other build codes on sticker in glove box.
Can anyone tell me what else can it be besides anything that's on here cuz my 05 silverado z71 5.3 is doing the same thing but I already replaced absolutely everything in talking about booster, master cylinder, rubber brake lines, calipers, brake pads, abs, and abs pump can't think of anything else. Can someone help me out plz?
Issacv22 did you figure out your problem. My 2009 z71 is doing the same thing. 2 brake boosters and master cylinders but front brakes keep locking up intermittent. Usually after running in park for 5-10 min. Mechanics can't figure it out. Brake lines have been flushed repeatedly. Problem never happens while at the mechanic.
The stainless slides your pads sit on are bent some and holding the pads in place.
WHAT DOES THE BACK SIDE OF THE ROTORS LOOK LIKE
I have a 2001 chevy silverado and when i try to take off the front driver side makes a bad dragging sound griding to. Whay could it be?
i have found on many disc brakes that the hat builds up with rust and causes the stainless slides to swell and won't let the pads release. pull off the slides and clean up the rust.
it sounds like someone put OIL in the brake fluid. This will make all the seals swell and bind. replace all of your brake parts with any rubber and flush out the system.
> "I CAN'T SAY FOR SURE THAT THE WAL-MART GUY WAS THE CULPRIT. SOLUTION; FIRST RAN SEVERAL BOLLLES OF BRAKE FLUID THROUGH SYSTEM( EQUALLY ON ALL 4 WHEELS). THEN REMOVED ALL WHEEL CYLINDERS; CLEANED, HONED, PUT NEW RUBBERS IN THEM". this guy must be lying you cannot "hone the cylinders". anything made in your lifetime uses nickel plated cylinders (the plating is extremely hard: but VERY VERY THIN). in recent times they go thinner and thinner on the plating. were you to hone or sand just a little you'd see the nickel come off. infact the failure of many are not due to "the rubber o-ring", but failure of nickel plating having worn away in the worst areas (thus allowing corrosion and further failure). there is absolutely no way to recover an old caliper that is freezing. (preventive maintenance will extend life - but remember these we're talking about are made in mexico shipped to USA and are likely an economic attack on usa).
excuse me. after reading many posts and seeing youtube REPLACE FLEXIBLE BRAKE TUBING before (or with) calipers. the the model has known issue the inner lines deteriorate and cause a pinch while the outside "looks fine" (any pinch in any line would cause a one-way action effect) many who replace calipers first report the issue had been the lines, while few reported the calipers fixed the problem
My front brakes are dragging. After rebuilding my calipers, still dragging. I disconnect the brake line after depressing the brake pedal with no change, brakes still dragging with no fluid pressure. So, replaced the entire caliper & bracket with new one. This did not affect the drag, still dragging exactly the same. The rotors do not look warped, I closely examined them when wheel spins freely and there is no wobble at all. I get the wheel to spin freely by compressing pistons/pads with a large c-clamp just enough to allow the wheel to spin freely. It does not matter if the brake line is attached or not. Again, when brakes are dragging, I can remove the brake line with no affect. When I rebuilt my calipers(i.e. cleaned up the pistons and cylinders, installed new square orings) I can visually see the pistons return back when brakes are released, but I am convinced the square oring is not functioning properly. But I do not know how to solve it. After I bought the new calipers(I assumed were rebuilt) the piston returned the same amount as the rebuilt ones and pads are dragging exactly the same amount. I am a mechanical engineer, and I think there is a design flaw in the replacement square oring design. It does not flex enough. Charlie 404-558-0553, please call if you have a solution.
if your fluid becomes contaminated usually from someone putting power steering fluid in the master. the 2 fluids don't mix and react with any rubber in the system and makes it swell making it difficult if not impossible for the fluid to return. if this is the case all calipers, hoses and master cylinder should be replaced after cleaning out the old fluid. once all parts have been replaced the system should be bled and flushed out again.
Mark, I pump the brake, the disc is difficult to turn, then I opened the bleed screw and some fluid came out, but no change to the dragging. It has to be the square oring around the pistons, could the design be defective. I installed new brake line, caliper & bracket, and new pads. I can disconnect the brake line with no change, rotor still dragging, it has to be the piston caliper not returning enough. It does release some since I can turn the rotor, but not enough. I don't see how it can be anything other than the piston not returning far enough. There is no pressure behind it. System is clean with new fluid.
make sure the pads slide back and forth in the caliper brace. some pads were made a little to large and get hung up when retracting.
I found the problem. The caliper repair kits I bought at Advance Auto, the piston seal (square oring) are too big. They are aftermarket(not AC Delco). I remember I had to force them in the caliper bore groove and noticed they seemed too big in diameter. This is poor quality. I layed them on top of the original seals, and they are bigger. They were binding in the grooves and not allowing them to roll over and back which is its function. I installed the original seals(which I kept, although slightly damaged), and the brakes do not drag anymore. they work perfectly. Lesson learned, do not use after market caliper repair kit seals... The dust boot was fine(it fit perfectly). I will order AC Delco seals and see if they are sized right. You can also tell if they are sized right because my OEM seals fit snuggly around the piston with piston removed. The atfter market seals did not fit snuggly, there was a noticeable gap. I want you to know that before I discovered this, I installed one of Autozone's rebuilt calipers(I think it was their Duralast aftermarket) and it did not work either. They brake was dragging after driving 30 miles. So I think rebuilt calipers can have the wrong piston seal installed. I am 100% sure I am right. I will pull my calipers and rebuild with ACDELCO seals if they are the right size. I will let you know when I get them, they are on back order at my local parts store.
More info, I also tried a repair kit from O'Reilly and its seals were too big also. They were aftermarket just like Advance Auto. I can look to see what the brand was for both if you would like to know. They were not ACDelco. Call me if you are in doubt about this. 404-558-0553.
If all else fails, you might have to replace the control module on the anti-lock brake system, I'm having the same problem with my 2005 Z71 truck. Talked to several people about this and seems to be a problem with these modules.
found out that when I tightened the master cylinder to the booster that the front plate flexed in about a quarter of an inch. back the bolts off then ran them down by hand then another 1 to 2 turns with a wrench and everything worked ok. seems that when the plate flexed it applied pressure to the brakes
Has any one removed the 60amp fuse for the ABS under the hood to see if this changes the dragging issue? If I pump my breaks up and hold then start my truck my pedal goes to the floor. After removing the fuse try the same process again and when I start the truck the pedal only goes down slightly. Any thoughts on my next steps?
I had same issue. Don't know if this is a temp fix yet, but I removed the ABS module and started it up drove it back and forth a few time with no issues. Put the module back and brakes still working properly.
Pat8228, I was having the same problems as everyone else after having replaced everything but the booster, which I verified had no fluid in it and tried your solution and after removing the fuse and driving it a few miles with no lock ups I replaced the ABS fuse and all has been working great. I have replaced many brake systems over the years but this is the first time I had this problem. I did not have to replace the booster as I verified it had no fluid in it by removing the vacuum line and using a nylon pull tie as a dip stick and going all the way to the bottom with no fluid appearing. Hope this helps others.
pat8228 What do you mean, "removed the ABS module"?
I did not remove the module but pulled the fuse and then drove the truck several miles with no problems, reinstalled the fuse and from then to now, several weeks, no problem. You do not have to remove anything but the fuse in the engine compartment fuse panel. Thanks, David
ok, so i ain't a chevy mechanic but i am a master harley tech and the first thing ya'll should be trying to to lube the caliper pins like several others have mentioned, you'll notice when you remove the caliper bolts and have to rock the caliper to compress the piston to free it from the rotor, all that shit should move with resistance but move smoothly, as in the caliper has to slide on its mouting bolts and that piston has to move in and out(not much but it still has to be able to travel) so any rust, grime, lizard gizzards or anything packed up on the outside of the piston under the pad or in or around the caliper mounting pins (bolts with shoulder) can fuck up the brakes, even a little is shitty, if the pad doesnt release away from the rotor smoothly then heat builds up, things warp, things stick, and things seize......that is just what ya do on a pad/rotor r&r but cars may stay a little cleaner then motorcycles, bikes get stuck kinda often if theyre ridden by humans, they actually have brake caliper pin lube but it's lube for the people who must have like 78 different types of lubes in their garage
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