Front brakes are hanging up. I put new pads, new rotors, new calipers and brake hoses and bled the brakes and they are still hanging up and getting extremely hot
I need to know if the computer has to be reset for the brakes. How do I get the brakes to release? It is a 2005 Silverado Z71 5.3 liter V8 with rear drums.
when this happens have went down to the bleeders on the caliper and cracked them to see of they release? if you haven't do that first. if they release go up the the master cylinder and unbolt it from the brake booster (leaving the line attached), and look to see if the master cylinder has returned to the released position(piston resting against the retainer snap ring). if it hasn't then replace the master cylinder. (there are two different types of master cylinders they have used- latch type and pin type, that refers to how the reservoir is attached to the master cylinder its self.They will ask you that when you go to buy a new Master cylinder> If it has returned make the pedal isn't binding or the booster hasn't got a problem and isn't returning to the released position. that should get you headed in the right direction :)
Sounds like it's your master cylinder or booster.
did anyone ever figure the brakes locking up on this truck cause my daughters 2005 is doing the same thing and already put $300 in it just on parts
I HAD THE SAME EXPERIENCE. DID COMPLETE BRAKE JOB ETC. APARANTLY THE BRAKE FLUID BECAME CONTAMINATED. HERE'S MY THEORY; I NEVER HAVE ANY BODY WORK ON MY VEHICLES. BUT ONE TIME I HAD EXCEEDED OIL CHANGE MILEAGE ( WHEN I WAS ON THE ROAD( ABOUT 300 MILES FROM HOME) SO I PULLED IN TO WAL-MART ( STUPID ME ) FOR AN IOL CHANGE. OF COURSE THEY COURTEOUSLS TOPPED OFF ALL FLUIDS- DUH. ABOUT 2 WEEKS LATER I NOTICED THAT AT REST THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT MOVE ( LIKE BEGIN TO MOVE ON A HILL) .IT GRADUALLY GOT WORSE, BRAKES WOULD HEAT UP ETC. AFTER FORCING TO DRIVE THEY LOOSENED UP ENOUGH TO GET WHERE I WSE GOING, BUT STILL WERE NOT COMPLETELE RELEASED. MY THEORY APARANTLY WAS CORRECT. I CAN'T SAY FOR SURE THAT THE WAL-MART GUY WAS THE CULPRIT. SOLUTION; FIRST RAN SEVERAL BOLLLES OF BRAKE FLUID THROUGH SYSTEM( EQUALLY ON ALL 4 WHEELS). THEN REMOVED ALL WHEEL CYLINDERS; CLEANED, HONED, PUT NEW RUBBERS IN THEM. I', NOT A VERY SMART PERSON BUT MY LONG SHOT THEORY WAS ALL THAT WAS LEFT. PROBLEM SOLVED. I KNOW A JOB LIKE THAT ISN'T A MECHANIC'S FAVORITE THIN TO DO. BUT CAN YOU IMAGINE THE COST OF HAVING A DEALER DO IT. IM THANKFULL I'M STILL YOUNG ENOUGH ( 72 ) TO DO MY OWN WORK AND DO REASONABLY TO TROUBLE SHOOT MY PROBLEMS. email@example.com
DON'T FORGET TO REPLACE THE MASTER CYLINDER ( DON'T RTEBUILD REBUILD IT OR GET A REBUILT ONE-- THEY NEVER WORK) firstname.lastname@example.org
2005 GMC Z71, going through this issue now!!! All my mechanic type buddies or students told me one of two things. Contaminated fluid or master cylinder. Had really bad contaminated fluid, $300, brake flush. Tried that, problem still exists, the mechanic is telling me the master cylinder needs to be replaced. another $500, but won't charge me the diagnosis fee, only the part and labor. Pissed off beyond belief!!!
So have any of you pulled the master cylinder and find the booster is hull of fluid because I'll bet that is the problem. At this point the fluid has ruined the booster so now you have to replace both. I've done about 6 of these so far
I had this problem on my 2000 silverado 1500 4wd. Turned out rust had built up where the wheel speed sensor mounts in the side of the hub. There are great youtube videos that guide you step by step in fixing it. If you get a new sensor be careful. They come with shims factory but an aftermarket one from Advance auto didnt so I put my old ones on and brakes were still sticking. Took them off and the wheel bearing would hit the sensor. So I ended up using 1 shim instead of both and it works great
Rear brakes hanging up on 01 Tahoe. Replaced calipers and hoses. Much better but not totally free. If I start it up and pump the brakes, shut it off. Brakes are dragging. If I pump it a couple times with engine off they free up. Could this be master cylinder?
2006 Silverado 4x4 with same front lockup. Started after I replaced the front with ceramic pads. Today I bleed the system to clear fluids and when I opened the front bleeders the brakes released. Finisher bleeding and tested with truck off, pressed pedal several time and a little drag but could turn the front spinal. After I cranked the truck and pressed the brake a few times it locked up. To me this is a booster issue. Odd enough it's only the front so one would think master cylinder. I will be cracking the master loose from the booster to check that. These pads are toast.
Did you have to remove the wheen speed sensor on the back of your hub?
Wheel not wheen. sorry
If so take it off and play around with the shims. Sounds like your anti lock is kicking in. You can check with a multimeter to ensure you have the right amount of space between the sensor and wheel bearing but I just put one spacer on the sensor, bolt it back to the hib and spin my hub and liaten and feel for scraping. If u dont then put your caliper back on and test your brakes. Rust and corosion messes with the spacing for some reason
Update to my repair today. Made sure brakes were locked up then pulled the master cylinder from the booster. What I found was not good, lower 1/3 of booster is full of brake fluid. I tow a lot and have had to top off the brake fluid at times but didn't think about it. I FOUND IT!. Question now is booster still good? I can syphon out the fluid or almost all of it.
Found my answer, I have to replace the booster and the master. Now I need to find out the brake code so I know which one I need. I have decoded the VIN, looked at all the stickers on the truck. Is it a JF3, JC3 or the 7 series. Where is it noted? Thanks
Found the brake and other build codes on sticker in glove box.
Can anyone tell me what else can it be besides anything that's on here cuz my 05 silverado z71 5.3 is doing the same thing but I already replaced absolutely everything in talking about booster, master cylinder, rubber brake lines, calipers, brake pads, abs, and abs pump can't think of anything else. Can someone help me out plz?
Issacv22 did you figure out your problem. My 2009 z71 is doing the same thing. 2 brake boosters and master cylinders but front brakes keep locking up intermittent. Usually after running in park for 5-10 min. Mechanics can't figure it out. Brake lines have been flushed repeatedly. Problem never happens while at the mechanic.
The stainless slides your pads sit on are bent some and holding the pads in place.
WHAT DOES THE BACK SIDE OF THE ROTORS LOOK LIKE
I have a 2001 chevy silverado and when i try to take off the front driver side makes a bad dragging sound griding to. Whay could it be?
i have found on many disc brakes that the hat builds up with rust and causes the stainless slides to swell and won't let the pads release. pull off the slides and clean up the rust.
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