Check hybrid system
2007 Toyota Camry Hybrid
My car started hesitating when giving it gas, and
Toyota the Toyota dealership said I needed a new
hybrid battery pack. I took the thing apart myself
and found one bad cell, and ordered a new cell
from Amazon for $40. I ohm'd everything out and
checked the voltages after connecting the string
back together. 263v.
But now the car won't start, and I'm running out of
ideas. The power locks work and headlights turn
on, but break lights do not work and power seat
does not function. The dash lights turn on when I
use the push start and the display says "check
hybrid system". My next option is figuring out the
control wiring and sensors.
I do not have a scan machine.
While I can't specifically answer your question I can tell you this. Hybrid batteries sell for upwards of $1500 in most cases. They are also deadly!! If not handled properly you can literally be killed trying to replace or repair the system!! You should find out what the normal operating voltage should be and go from there. But proceed with extreme caution and only if you know what you're doing!! I doubt that what you bought for $40 was a hybrid battery!! HTH. -Jim
The entire pack sells for that amount and more, but inside there are 34 individual batteries connected in series. The cell I bought has a good voltage and is an exact replica of the battery cell I replaced. I understand the risk associated with opening it up and work on battery strings with a much higher voltage on a regular basis.
Knowing what trouble codes are stored in the computers is key to diagnosing a Hybrid System. Since you cannot start this vehicle and take it somewhere for further diagnosis try disconneting the 12 VOLT battery for about 10 min. Reconnect and let's see what happens? Are you sure there where no sparks while you were performing this repair?
I reset the maintenance through the dash and took off the battery connection for 10 minutes, with no progress. I tried plugging in an OBD2 and it does not connect. I figured out there is no power to the port to check the codes. I pulled all of the fuses I think could be related under the dashboard. After some research and trouble shooting I narrowed it down to the fuse bus bar under the hood. The 120amp fuse blew and the fuse box must be removed to access the bolts underneath that hold the fuse down. To access I had to remove the air box and the inverter. It was very time consuming, and I got it out. Picked up the new fuse from the dealership today for $24. Will update when I get it installed.
WOW...I'm impressed with your persistence. nice job with your diagnosis. What worries me is what blew that 120 amp fuse? That is a big spark. One could weld 1/4 inch steel plate with that current. May I suggest you use a lot of caution when installing that fuse. Check both sides of where the fuse plugs in with a Volt Meter. Make sure both ends of that fuse connection is at near ZERO volts. I she blows again...you might consider going back to square one. A pair of electrically insulated gloves might be in order. If you do get into that HV Battery Pack....look for corrosion among hose module connections. Rather common cause for Battery Pack replacement. Keep us up to date on this interesting issue.
The new fuse is installed and the car started up. I still have a check engine light, but was able to use the obd2 scanner and get the codes. The check engine light was on before I started this project. The car sat for a week with the batteries disconnected. (P0441)The first code is for the evap system which has a lot of scenarios to fix it. I will work on that later. The second code (P0A9E) hybrid battery temperature sensor "A" circuit high. When installing the battery pack one of the sensor wires came loose on the bottom of the batteries, so I believe that's my issue for the alarm. As for the fuse, I have class 00 gloves and a multimeter along with insulated tools all rated at 1000 volts and a 40 cal arc flash suit. I checked the copper bus ends on the fuse and the incoming wires. Everything was dead before handling and taking apart. The batteries were also disconnected, LOTO. As for the short that blew the fuse, the black wire that comes from the negative pole on the 12 volt battery and gives power to the components inside the hybrid battery shorted with ground. The connector they were fastened to was twisted a little and not properly placed within the hybrid battery pack. It is a small white piece of plastic connected to the frame. The car has charged back up with normal driving and runs fine. When starting the car the first time after the fuse installation it took a few minutes to get all of the components back online. Now that I took it apart once it will be much faster if I ever have to do it in the future (my sister has the exact same car and hasn't had maintenance on the batteries yet). My only regret is not getting pictures of all of the dissembling, but when working in the engine I had grease all over my hands and did not want to touch a camera or phone. I'd be happy to assist if anyone has similar issues with their hybrids and has questions. Glad I did this repair myself.
U RAA...AND GOOD FOR YOU. Keep us up to date on your continuing adventure with this vehicle. Concerning that battery temp code. I seem to recall a Toyota service bulletin concerning cleaning a dirty HV Cooling Fan. Good Job...and ...Good Luck.
Thank you, I'll look up the service bulletin.
Aaron....any updates on this vehicle?
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