Stalling when hot... My 1967 427/400 Hp L68 Corvette stalls when I drive it for approx 15 to 20 minutes after a short time it will start back up and do it again. What is the problem? When it run is runs very strong.

Asked by Apr 03, 2016 at 08:06 PM about the 1967 Chevrolet Corvette Convertible Roadster

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

My 1967 vet stalls after driving it for approx 15 minutes.  If I wait a few minutes
it starts back up only to repeat the problem.  It has 3/2 barrel Holly carbs and
they have been rebuilt.  Can it be the condenser or the coil? It is getting fuel
and runs strong when running. Where do I star?  thank you

6 Answers

It looks like I have places for fuel filters at the carb gas inputs. I have no inline filters. So I guess I should check them then. It does start and runs well. If it is carberator related why does it run for 15 minutes or so then stall? Then restart after is cools? Any thoughts on this. Other postings seem to indicate it was an electrical components problem. Coil, condenser, etc. so that is were I was heading. I can clean the carb filters and give it try I guess. Any other ideas will be helpful. Thank you.

11,315

Have the carburetor checked. May be a bad float. With no filters you may have jets that plug up when hot, something expands heated and contracts when cold? If you can talk someone into swapping carbs, do it and see if that is the issue. And do a check for filters and put one or two in if you don't have any. Dirt and rust starts in the gas tank and travel to the carb if unabated. Last, have the gas pump checked. Is it electrical? Heat will expand the contacts or circuitry and cut off the power until cooled down. Try some gas cleaner in the tank, it may resolve the issue also.

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Thank you all for your ideas. I bought the right carb wrenches (I did not know they were invented) and took off the gas lines to each carb. That was it! The center carb filter was full of silt ... so full it was hard to believe the car could run. It started right up. Now what do I do with the silt that may be left in the tank??? Hmm? Don't want it to happen again in a few miles. I have some Sea Foam additive should I use this? Any other ideas vs taking the tank out?? Appreciate your help and advice in advance.

11,315

If you can, use a very powerful light and look down into the gas tank. If you see "gunk" or sludge in there, I'd have it cleaned. If it is the original gas tank, you may consider a replacement tank. My 69 Vette's tank rusted through in 1987. I replaced it. It was full of rust and stuff. A fuel line cleaner may remove water in the system only so read what it is made to do first. I always use top manufactures's fuel and switch it off to get the cleaning effect of what's out there put in by the gasoline companies. I'd put on a filter and after four tanks, change it out and look at it for contamination. A fuel agitative can vibe used to clean the carb from accumulation. I'd still think down the road of having the carb rebuilt and cleaned out. I have a duel carb set-up and after 12 years had them rebuilt. It added new life to them and the car runs better also.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
Best Answer

Will do this calicaron. Thanks for the advice. Onward to good running. Any advice on specific gas additive? Octane booster? Gas stabilizer?

11,315

Next week I'm p;pulling my Edelbrock (Carter) duel carbs and putting on duel FiTech EFI throltleboth system. I'm also adding a fuel control system to boost psi pressure and two additional filters so the injectors will not get clogged. Look on line at the system. Duel set up in #1700 and single EFI is near $800. Worth looking at. I'll post pictures on my bio when done. Thanks for the post, and have fun.

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