Regarding my 1977 280z I replaced my alternater with a 1981 nissan 710 truck alternater and unpluged the regulater and changed the wiring on the regulater plug. Now when let off the gas to shift the engine cut out while still moving I tune the key to start the engine kicks in. Then I shift to 3rd it does it again. What could be the problem? By the way the new alternater does charge the system.
the original '77 had an external voltage regulator (most likely), your new one is a so called one wire job- must omit the un-neccesary parts-
I believe the six diodes are regulated on-board the replacement, and you're tryin' to do dual-duty here- cannot regulate that's been regulated, choke and puke~
What is the voltage on your battery when the engine is running? Shifting gear even with a bad alternator should not kill the engine. --- You actually can run the power through two regulators in series. Current will only flow through half of the second regulators diodes since it's already direct current.
....mhyeah...could be, it's really only a guess on my part being familiar with the evolution of modern automotive charging systems~ but, have done plenty of Frankenstein in the past~
The voltage is over 14 And unplugged the old regulator I cut the plug off the regulator and wired it as so I connected white/red wire (go's to the 12v ignition) to the White/black wire (go's to alternator) And I connected yellow wire (go's to alternator) to the white/blue (which is a 12v ignition source)
Maybe somehow when the rewiring took place a ignition wire got incorporated. When the regulator kicks out so does the ignition. Must be more information to the story not mentioned. Try to run vehicle without alternator hooked up. If it doesn't die then you'll know it's time to 're route a wire or two.
The only other thing is that when I was using the old system (external Voltage Regulator) one time I came home I had my lights on pushed on the gas pedal all my lights got real bright then burned out. I don't know if I burned out any other relay or switches could cause the problem? When this happened I knew the regulator wasn't working
should be a one wire replacement...maybe I'm dreamin' but regulator Is built in-no need to mess with any of the other wires, though may be a warning light or intructions to the ECU, but hardly think so at this stage of automotive evolution~ might look at where those extra wires go, I haven't got the schematic in front of me, but apparently you do~
Should I plug in a new voltage regulator
You may want to reference a basic schematic from a book and start from scratch.
not regulatin' voltage...omit. put it on the wall of your shop~
Thank you for your time
There still is the problem "Shifting gears should not kill the engine."
yeah, what kind of battery is in use here, one that's plenty old, and isn't issuing with optimal performance? the lack of output from your alternator, combined with a dead/marginal battery could cause the motor to stall~
It's not the shifting of the gears It's the letting off of the gas pedal which I was thinking it was the gas at first but that don't make cence I though that it was the electrict to the gas pump but why would come back on by turning the key.
sounds to me like you need some reliable ground, from your new battery, to the chassis and to the engine, all with 1/0 cable that will allow 300 cold cranking amps through and a reliable source for your ignition system~
Looking for a Used Nissan in your area?
CarGurus has 380,490 nationwide Nissan listings starting at $670.