97 Cavalier cranks but wont start
This first happened at a fast food drive up for no apparent reason the car died, and after 10 mins of trying it finally started. I replaced fuel filter, Things were good for a few weeks. Then it died on me while trying to parallel park and wouldnt start at all. The shop said the ignition control module was bad and crankshaft sensor. They were replaced. Within a weeks time the car started losing power on a small hill and died at the top, but ti started right back up. and a few days later I noticed at diff times it would start to lose power but recoup itself. Back to the shop, this time they said I had a bad fuel injector and a vacuum leak. The work order states the injector was replaced, and a knock sensor au, and an emission hose, and misc parts. I'm at my wits end, and am now leery to even take it back to the shop. Advice please!
well, we'd have to look at your trouble codes to see what's makin' all the fuss. This isn't necessarily the solution, for example one could have a partially plugged EGR valve which may be recieving instructions to open and close, but will only leave it half-open, create bad performance and stalling. Your smog guy should have spotted this right awayl Don't go to THAT shop. They are taking advantage of you! anyone can find flaws in your systems, for example a tester of coolant pressure may decide he need more business, so actually creates a leak where none existed before. Sounds like your car has many miles on it...things just don't 'go bad' by themselves, but need extraneous forces...such as a tester pumpin it up beyond a safe pressure...electronics are the same, if your battery isn't clean (with a hose) and the negative terminal isn't clean and connected to the chassis (frame) and to the engine, this in itself can cause mis-diagnosed electrical problems---doesn't have to cost a bunch of money all the time...those guys make me mad taking advantage of the situation...typical, my shop would do shit like this all the time, and would be more concerned about squeezin' their customer, then providing reliable transportation. of course this doesn't help you too much, but go get a second opinion from an honest place...angies list, and I think click n clack the tappet brothers have recommended service guys too. please don't replace a bunch of stuff you don't need. that's the bottom line. try to understand the basic systems, air,fuel,spark, timing really when it comes down to it there ain't much there.
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don't really know, but based on your complaints, including not starting could be attributed to this devlish little bugger that makes you car have to breathe it's own exhaust, in the name of cleaner air (and more trips to the repair shop)-
Is the theft system light suppose to come on when you turn the key on because mine is on and solid?
courtesty of Mad Jack:1. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF. 2. Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON. The vehicle will not start. 3. Observe the SECURITY telltale, after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF. 4. Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds. 5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 two more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes. The vehicle is now ready to relearn the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or passwords on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. Important: The vehicle learns the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle. 6. Start the engine. The vehicle has now learned the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or password.
Tried that and it didn't work as the anti theft light never went off.
Car has now gone back to the shop, they arranged for tow truck to pick it up this morning.
Mabe have your key tested
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